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Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen

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Wine

Damien Coquelet, Beaujolais-Villages, 2015

Damien Coquelet, -Villages, 2015, „Les Bourrons“, Red-wine from France

5,5 points

My personal association of Beaujolais is bad if not appalling. The hype of Beaujolais Primeur: much too young, extreme fruity wine of low quality bought and drunk by British. Yes, British are known for bad taste – and as much as many of good British friends of mine would disagree – majority of British at least have a very strange taste.

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Grüner Veltliner, Steinleithn, 2009, Geyerhof

7 points

Grüner Veltliner, Steinleithn, 2009, DAC Reserve, Geyerhof, Kremstal, White-wine from Austria

Krems is a little Austrian town on Danube, maybe 100 km upstream of Vienna. A small side valley of a stream called also Krems gives this wine area which is of a manageable size its name. It verges to two other wine areas Wachau and Kamptal. The Krems valley is rather rich of different soils. Although Danube dominates the countryside, traffic- and infrastructures the little valley offers a niche home for some great winemakers. One of them is the vinery Geyerhof in Oberfucha. Already since 1988 (!) family Meyer produce only organic wines.

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Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Doc, 2012

Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, Bolgheri Doc, 2012, Tenuta dell‘ Ornellaia, Red-wine from Italy

6 points

Vinery Ornellaia is one of the most distinguished in Tuscany. The most famous wine of it has the simple name of the vinery Ornellaia which lays in the region Bolgheri belongs to the top wines of supertuscan.

Le Serre Nuove is the second wine or as many reviews say the little brother of the main brand. Although 2012 is too young in my mind, the vinery puts a lot efforts to make this wine drinkable as early as possible – probably to be able to sell and consume quickly. Anyhow, even this is too young, you immediately realize drinking a great, big red wine. Black and wild cherries, a bit cassis but also some plum, these are the fruity aromas. Not to lead you into any wrong impression, the wine is in general pretty dry which I really enjoy. There is pepper and some oak spice, aromatic balance which grows with each minute the bottle is open.

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Chardonnay, Gesellmann, Steinriegel, 2013

Chardonnay, Gesellmann, Steinriegel, 2013, Burgenland, White-wine from Austria

4,5 Points

Gesellmann is a prestigious and long established vinery of Austrian wine region Burgenland / Deutschkreuz. Although they produce white and red, red dominates their variety of wine. Some of the reds are pretty well known and have been awared during last years. Those belong to the best from Austria.

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Wiener Gemischter Satz, Rotes Haus am Nussberg, 2014

Wiener Gemischter Satz, Weingut Meyer, Rotes Haus, Nussberg, 2014, White-wine from Austria

6,5 points

First of all: Gemischter Satz comes along like a cuvee as it contains different sorts of grapes. Unlikely of a real cuvee Gemischter Satz means wine of different sorts of grape within the same sole vineyard. Mixed vines at only one parcels, harvest as well as pressed at the same time and place. If you like you could say the vineyard is the cuvee. This is mixted piece isn’t very common nowadays although it has been rather normal in the past.

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Riserva Mazon, 2006, Pinot Nero, Blauburgunder, J. Hofstätter

Riserva Mazon, 2006, Pinot Nero, Blauburgunder, J. Hofstätter, red wine from Alto Adige, Italy

6 points

Many months ago I already wrote about the vinery J. Hofstätter from Alto Adige. Please find all about it at Riserva Mazon, 2008

I recently opened the wine I describe but this time it was a 2006 vintage and a magnum. The wine was wonderful and confirms to me that 2006 was a great vintage for this region.

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Pomerol, Château Cantelauze, 2000

Pomerol, Château Cantelauze, Jean Noel Boidron, 2000, red-wine from France

6,5 points

It is very probably senseless writing about “Pomerol” since really everything seems to be said. There are thousand more experts and each of them would certainly know more than me. I make it short: Pomerol is one of the much well known and respected wine areas and application in the Eastern region of Bordeaux (right side of Dordogne). It is considered being one the very best locations for wine in the world, some of the wines from Pomerol are really famous but also extremely expensive. Maybe two aspects are reasonable to name: the application of Pomerol does not know a classification system all reputation and reference of a wine is related to the vinery and its brand. The prices differences between vineries which even immediate neighbors are completely inexplicable as there are ranges of some hundred, sometimes even thousand Euros per bottle!

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Monte Real, Bodega Riojanas, Gran Reserve, 1970

Monte Real, Bodega Riojanas, Gran Reserve, 1970, Red-wine from Spain

6,5 points

As once written I do not know anything about Spanish wine unfortunately. Nevertheless together with some followers of the Weinbar Rutz I recently had the chance to taste a Monte Real, Grand Reserve from 1970!

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Loimer, Langenlois, Käferberg, Grüner Veltliner, 2008

Loimer, Langenlois, Käferberg, Grüner Veltliner, 2008, Kamptal Reserve

7,5 points

One of my most beloved and favored winemakers of Austria is Fred Loimer from Langenlois at the bottom of the Kamptal which is in the Austrian area called Niederösterreich (Lower Austria). This is certainly one of the rather less developed regions of Austria as there is almost no tourism, no industry and mainly farming. Anyhow, you can find some really interesting wine making there. The most of the wine of Niederösterreich is comparable easy and mostly “home-made”.

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Katzebosch, Grauer Burgunder, 2011, Jürgen Leiner

Katzebosch, Grauer Burgunder, 2011, Jürgen Leiner, White-wine from Germany

6,5 points

I said everything about Jürgen Leiner as you can find already two reviews about the remarkable winemaker from German area Pfalz.

Aside of his Riesling (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/04/03/riesling-kalmit-2011-weingut-jurgen-leiner/) and Pinot Noir (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/04/03/spatburgunder-kalmit-weingut-jurgen-leiner-2009/) he also produces a Grauer Burgunder which in French and therefore internationally is a Pinot Gris.

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