Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen


July 2016

Providence, Restaurant, Los Angeles

Providence, Restaurant, Los Angeles, USA

7 points

Simply put: this is the best restaurant I’ve encountered so far in Los Angeles. How many years have I been coming to Los Angeles and eating bad or what I’d call just decent food? Even when friends have invited me out somewhere – and of course they always mean very well – they’ve brought me to loud either show-offy event places or simply to uninspiring restaurants.


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Peters, Riesling Auslese, 2007, Martha’s Weinberg

Peters, Riesling Auslese, 2007, Martha’s Weinberg, White wine from Germany

7,5 points

Some time ago I posted two reviews about Johannes Peter’s Scharzhofberger Riesling. You can find a lot of information about the winery at: and

This particular wine, Martha’s Weinberg, actually does not appear on Peter’s website. Johannes Peters writes: Continue reading “Peters, Riesling Auslese, 2007, Martha’s Weinberg”

Drei Sonnen, Hotel and Restaurant, Serfaus

Drei Sonnen, Hotel and Restaurant, Serfaus, Austria

2,5 points

If you don’t already know an area well, you find yourself searching online for the right places to stay and to eat. Presuming that you read my reviews regularly, you should already know that in most cases I choose hotels on the basis of good cuisine. The four-star hotel “Drei Sonnen” at Serfaus doesn’t offer only high quality but apparently also a “Kulinarium”! ( What an amusing description. This need to always find or create new terms, like “gourmet restaurant” – another preposterous phrase – Kulinarium isn’t a real word, of course. You might think it would have its origin in Latin, but it doesn’t. Is it a place, a room, or an auditorium where you experience culinary delectability? It is a very grandiloquent notion, which of course suggests something extraordinarily special. Particularly compared to all of its neighbors; in Serfaus every second building is either a hotel, a holiday flat to rent, or a gastronomic establishment. Well, I didn’t make my choice only because of the absurd institution of  “kulinarium,” but because I got a good deal.

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Davino, 2012

Davino, 2012, Domaine Ceptura Rouge, Red wine from Romania

6 points

I once disappointed my Romanian friend and colleague Mihai when he asked me to try a Romanian Chardonnay, which I did. You can guess why he was disappointed – because I didn’t really like it. If you read my blog often you may remember the review:

Wine is connected with the soul of the part of the earth where it comes from. If you come from a country such as Romania, which is much less developed than the most of European countries, it is absolutely understandable that you’d want to present something unique, beautiful or extraordinary. If you take wine as the example, you’re automatically entering one of the toughest competitions. Continue reading “Davino, 2012”

Gourmet Restaurant Novalis, Burghotel Hardenberg

Novalis, Restaurant at Burghotel Hardenberg, Nörten-Hardenberg, Germany

5,5 points

Located some distance from any international hot-spot – unless you would call Hannover a metropolis – Nörten-Hardenberg is a provincial town, too big to call a village and too small to call a town. It lies on the western side of the mid-range mountain area Harz, and the next larger city is Göttingen. This said, the A7 highway (Autobahn) passes by here – the A7 being one of the most important connections between northern and southern Germany. Once a year, Nörten-Hardenberg comes into global focus, during the international tournament of show jumping which is held there. It was reported that one most prominent guests during last year’s event was Bruce Springsteen; his daughter apparently participated in one of the competitions.

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Yabby Lake Vineyard, Chardonnay 2005

Yabby Lake Vineyard, Mornington Peninsula, Chardonnay 2005, White wine from Australia

7 points

Having never been to Australia, and not knowing very much about wines from there, it is always a real pleasure to be introduced to special or unique Australian wines. My Australian friend Grant Hill  recently presented me with a 2005 Chardonnay from Yabby Lake Vineyard, which is on the Mornington Peninsula. This is more or less 40 km north of Melbourne. If you like, you can find detailed information about the climate, soil and other wine-making factors of this area on Yabby Lake Vineyard’s website:

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Chateau Pape Clement, 1986

Chateau Pape Clement, 1986, Grand Cru Classe De Graves, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, Red wine from France

8 points

Chateau Pape Clement, named after Pope Clement V (1305 – 1324), is one of the oldest Grands Crus de BordeClément_V_Rome_bibliothèque_Palatineaux. Clement V’s real name was Bertrand de Goth, from Bordeaux – thus the connection. You may immediately think of Chateauneuf du Pape when you first see a bottle of Chateau Pape Clement, since a pontifical insignia gilds the label, but Pape Clement is indeed another wine, belonging among the top Bordeaux wines.

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