Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen


May 2015

Sauvignon Blanc, vom Kalkstein, Wernersbach, 2014

Sauvignon Blanc, vom Kalkstein, Wernersbach 2014, White-wine from Germany

5 points

This wine is another selection of the current Süddeutscher Zeitung spring collection.

If you read the description of the wine of Süddeutsche Zeitung this must be a very rare wine as they reports that the wine delivers aromas of Guava, grapefruit, a bit kiwi and peruvian cherry and even some asparagus. This is too much in one wine in my mind or the sommelier missed the rights synonyms.

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Edi Simcic, Sauvignon, Goriska Brda, 2006

Edi Simcic, Sauvignon, Goriska Brda, 2006, White-wine from Slovenia

6,5 points

This is another example how outstanding some wines can be from Slovenia. This Sauvignon of Edi Simcic is rich, voluminous and certainly unique. Although nine years old there is a wonderful freshness like morning dew on summer grass, but of course due to the age very powerful and driven by aromas of gooseberries, apple and different herbs. Many Sauvignon Blancs – in particular if they come from the so called the new world areas – have a smoky tone and / or lots of barrique. Edi Simcic invests certainly a lot in this wine: in the vineyard but also a lot in the cellar and he gives his wines a lot of time!

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Ayler Kupp, Riesling Auslese, 2012, Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier

Ayler Kupp, Riesling Auslese, 2012, Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier, White-wine from Germany

6 points

The first nip is a different note than many other Riesling from this area which is very close to the famous vineyard Scharzhofberg at the river Saar. It is a little bit tart and, it appears creamier and has more petrol. This Riesling is perhaps also a little bit less mineral although the soil is shist. Due to a bit more modest mineralitiy there is a different balance among Riesling’s typical fruitiness and freshness. The fruits are less citron but a bit more mature as apple and gooseberry but also some exotic flavors. The wine sparkles a bit on one tongue which is refreshing and has a very long reverberation. Although it is an Auslese this wine is dry and even a little bit fumy if you can say so.

Continue reading “Ayler Kupp, Riesling Auslese, 2012, Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier”

Bistrot Saint Sauveur, Restaurant, Le Cannet

Bistrot Saint Sauveur, Restaurant, Le Cannet, France

5,5 points

Although it will remain a miracle to me how someone can buy a real estate in this sprawl urban area of too much cement and too less green called Le Cannet I admit it it has a nice little old town center where you find another interesting and friendly restaurant close to Cannes called Bistrot Saint Sauveur.


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La Brocherie, Restaurant, Port La Napoule

La Brocherie, Restaurant, Port de Mandelieu la Napoule, France

5,5 points

Shall I disclose that my profession brings me to Cannes occasionally every year even three times? Everyone who knows me because of my job is aware of current Cannes Film Festival as many of those are right now in Southern France. There are many reasons to hate Cannes: for example the most arrogant and also expensive taxi drivers in the world – almost never available, unfriendly but certainly the opposite of modest, this is one of the only places in the world where you would consider a brand new Passat as lousy car. Many waiters are slow and rude; only those ones who are from other countries – in particular Eastern Europe – are often really nice. I always say that becoming a waiter in Cannes doesn’t require much French as the owner teaches them to behave as follows: “as soon as a guest enters the café don’t hurry, remain staying at the bar as each afternoon. After ca. five minutes – and only if the guest tries to lead some attention to itself – tell him: “J’arrive”. In the case this (maudit) guest is still counting on you after twenty minutes of waiting, just pass him and say “deux minutes”. And then, just some more minutes later, deliver the bill”. Being in Cannes since years you wouldn’t be shocked if someone in real would bill you for nothing. Since a single cappuccino at the Croisette is considerable affordable if it costs “only” € 8 (!) we all shouldn’t be astonished to pay just for foam.

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Bánh tôm Hồ Tây, Seafood Restaurant, Inn and Biergarten, Hanoi

Bánh tôm Hồ Tây, Restaurant and Biergarten, Hanoi, Vietnam

4 points

photo14This is not only a very popular place for all people of Hanoi. It has a historical meaning as this inn is over 50 years old and has been always in private ownership which is quite remarkable considering ruthless disappropriation in the second half of seventies. If you ever have been in Hanoi it is very hard to imagine how quiet and even slow it was in this town just 20 years ago. Although socialism may have some positive sides – in particular in regard to social wealth in Vietnam – it also has had terrible consequences to a country of small but proud farmers and people of traders, dealers and retailers. The most famous meal of Bánh tôm Hồ Tây is the Hồ Tây shrimp cake. During Vietnam War, when young men got called to move to the south to war, families went to this place for a last big dinner. Always when Hanoi people had to celebrate something this restaurant has been first place of celebration.

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Bergmandel, Lemberger GG, 2012, Aldinger

Bergmandel, Lemberger GG, 2012, Aldinger, Red-wine from Germany

7 points

I have been criticized by someone who is from Stuttgart that it isn’t as bad as I described in the opener of my review of Aldinger’s Spätburgunder Rosé some while ago ( I only can repeat it is good to know the family Aldinger as they are great winemakers and it doesn’t matter really if they speak a bit strange German dialect. This all is a part of my perhaps strange humor and certainly is not related to any serious consideration about people coming from this area. Although I must say ….. again, this is joke.

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Peters, Scharzhofberger, Riesling, Spätlese, 2007

Peters, Scharzhofberger, Riesling, Spätlese, 2007, White Wine from Germany

6 points

Scharzhofberg (Wiltingen) is really one of the most famous Riesling vineyards of Germany. Although people would consider this is at the Mosel but it isn’t as the hill faces to south at the right side of the smaller river Saar. Similar to many other vineyards of the wine area Mosel, Saar, Ruwer the soil of this hillside contains weathered schist, rocks as well as ferruginous and clayey soil.

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A.J. Adam, Hofberg, 2013

A.J. Adam, Dhroner Hofberg, Riesling Trocken, White-wine from Germany

6,5 points

Another excellent Riesling from Mosel: A.J. Adam is a Riesling of the vineyard called Drohn. This is a part of Neumagen Drohn at the middle of German’s number one Riesling wine area Mosel.

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Brasserie Warszawska, Warsaw

Brasserie Warszawska, Restaurant, Warsaw, Poland

4 points

Just a quick dinner at Brasserie Warszwaska tonight in Warsaw. This little restaurant in the style of a French Bistro – quite often awarded and multiple recommended by different professional associations as Michelin – seems to be a place rather for lunch than dinner. It is Monday and similar to many other places this is not the busiest evening in general.

As much as it may look like a French bistro – rather in Los Angeles than in Paris – it is a beautiful, smaller but comfortable and selected place.

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Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Selo (Kobarid)

Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Selo (Kobarid), Slovenia

8 points

In reference to my previous report about Hisa Franko – – I like to highlight the amazing, impressive and memorable cuisine. Ana Roš is a remarkable chef and it is completely not understandable that she hasn’t got more awards respectively she does not belongs to the circle of cooks which shall have at least one Michelin star considering uninspired food experiences in some French Michelin star restaurants.

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Les Paradetes, Conca De Barberà, 2009

Les Paradetes, Conca De Barberà, 2009, Red-wine from Spain

2,5 points

It is a philosophy to produce wines as naturally as possible, to classify the wine as organic or even biodynamic. For some people, discussing whether wine should contain sulfite is fundamental. I have no clear statement or position but just like to say that some overly natural wines just aren’t my cup of tea. (Adding sulfite is an appropriate and even in some cases necessary element of winemaking). I appreciate organic production as it is certainly healthier and respects natural resources and enriches flavors.

Nobody really knows if the phase of the moon or even natural or artificial noises or sounds have some influences on wine’s development. I personally don’t believe in it.

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