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Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen

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September 2015

St. Andrea, Örökke, Egri Féher, 2008

St. Andrea, Örökke, Egri Feher, 2008, White-wine from Hungary

7 points

St. Andrea as I already wrote once is one of the most interesting and definite best wineries in Hungary.  It is located at the edge of Egerszalók which is a village in the heart of the Hungarian wine area Eger. The person behind of all is even a “doctor”. Dr. Lörincz György. Usually I do not believe too much in Hungarian white wines although there are of course some exceptions. Not really surprising that one of this exception is a wine of the vinery St. Andrea. The (success) story of St. Andrea is quite impressive: nowadays they husband nine vineyards and with 17 different sorts of vines.

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1

Jacobs & Co, Steakhouse, Toronto

Jacobs & Co, Steakhouse, Toronto, Canada

7 points

My favored steakhouse in Toronto always has been Barberian’s (http://www.barberians.com/). Not only because of its great name, but because of some very good steaks, great wines and some personal stories which are related strongly to this place. Everything I thought is more or less unique as for instance the impressive huge wine selection and of course the meat. But, I need to be honest; the Barberian is a very vintage and even conservative place.

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0

Joseph Drouhin, Laforet, Bourgogne, Pinot Noir, 2005

Joseph Drouhin, Laforet, Bourgogne, Pinot Noir, 2005, Red-wine from France

3 points

Even though after I opened it two days ago it didn’t become an exceptional experience drinking this Pinot Noir of Joseph Drouhin.

First of all it surprisingly young, fresh and very straight forward. Secondly it is really dry and without some extravagancies. I read somewhere that the wine is fruity, but I would disagree. Obvious fruity notes as raspberry and red currant but there isn’t anything too dominant. It’s likeable that the wine is light, negligible tannins but still – considering missing character – balanced. A little bit smoky and with some memories of leather, that what comes along as well.

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0

A.J. Adam, Hofberg Auslese, 2013

A.J. Adam, Dhroner Hofberg, Riesling Auslese, 2013, White-wine from Germany

7,5 points

„Deutscher Prädikatswein“ – what a German word! But if you, dear reader, see this and you are not a German wine expert then you can for sure expect best quality. This is top-level of German wines. Prädikatswein range from dry to intensely sweet, but unless it is specifically indicated that the wine is dry or off-dry as these wines always have noticeably mounts of residual sugar. As you have in some other countries other categorizations respectively classification. You could read much more about it at Wikipedia if you look for German wine classifications: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_wine_classification).

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0

Newton, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012

Cabernet Sauvignon, Newton, 2012, Red-wine from USA

5 points

Out of three categories of vinery Newton there are two wines belong to the “red” line, which is actually the affordable one (or the lowest one). Probably Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon are the most present red sorts of wine at California. In my point of view the most relevant is Cabernet Sauvignon. Napa County or any other Northern Californian wine area provides appropriate soil and weather conditions for all mentioned sorts of wine for sure, but if I consider how hot it can become in these areas I guess Cabernet Sauvignon is very appropriate.

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1

Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Restaurant, Berlin

Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

6,5 points

It took me a while upon this review. I slowly got my thoughts and impression into something you can read: My master of wine – Billy Wagner – and his partner Micha Schäffer succeeded generating a remarkably positive hype about their new restaurant called Nobelhart & Schmutzig. Not everyone has expected this as it is an unorthodox but dogmatic concept which they are following. Without real compromises, the sitting arrangement, the way of cooking and obviously the selection of wine is unique in Berlin! It takes you almost your breath when you get into the place first time so inspiring and even for Berlin standards unconventional it is. Some critics already wrote that it nuts to need ringing the bell to get access to restaurant as the door is locked. This indeed is pretty seldom in Berlin but probably also a concession to the interior because a wall between entrance and the sitting areas provide snugness for those who otherwise would have the door in their back. 28 seats along a three side counter which goes around an open kitchen and the bar. 14 seats on big table. Cool music out of gramophone records…

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4

Norman Hardie, Pinot Noir Unfiltered, 2011

Norman Hardie, Pinot Noir Unfiltered, 2011, Wellington, Red-wine from Canada

4,5 points

Canada and red-wine? I would not mind if someone says this doesn’t work. And in those cases I tried reds from Canada before it was – let’s say it friendly – ambitious. Out of curiosity I recently bought two different Pinot Noir of Canadian winemaker Norman Hardie.

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1

Venissa, Restaurant and Vineyard, Marzzorbo

Venissa, Restaurant and Vineyard, Marzzorbo (Venice), Italy

8 points

What a remarkable restaurant! I should have heard about this one, but never did. Recommended along many other awarded restaurants of Venice the description of it made me curious and let you in the impression visiting a friendly place. I did not put attention on the location and thought it should be in Venice. The concierge of my hotel told me that I would need either ca. 1,5h by the water bus or 30 – 40 minutes by water taxi.

The restaurant is located on another island of the Venice Laguna called Marzzorbo close to Burano. It is not only a restaurant but also small vineyard. You can even rent a room for some nights – probably without the classic hotel service certainly a great option for another stay.

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1

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