Search

Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen

Tag

Slovenia

Skykitchen, Restaurant, Berlin

Skykitchen, Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

7 points

Alexander Hoppe has Richard’s deer. Which is funny because a few days before I finally made it to Skykitchen Berlin, I visited Richard, another Michelin star restaurant in Berlin, and there was no deer there – see here my review about Richard Richard, Restaurant, Berlin

Not that you should get the impression that I go exclusively to starred restaurants, but Berlin makes it quite easy, given that there are a total of 21 restaurants with altogether 28 stars – more than any other city in Germany and currently in 12th place in the world, and in Europe coming in right after Paris, London, and Brussels at number four! This said, I do not think that restaurants are necessarily better just because they have a star. There are many I’ve visited in past years they would easily get one from me, if I were a tester. But there are many cities and places in world that Michelin does not even test. And since I’m not ruining the career of a chef or a winemaker because I may not like what I’m served, with my recommendations you can take them or leave them. A friend from Los Angeles recently visited Brawn in London (Brawn, Restaurant, London) and enjoyed it very much. It is not listed among the almost 80 restaurants with a star there. And it’s certainly interesting to see how different all of the Berlin Michelin star restaurants are – or what makes them similarly unique on the other hand. This kind of field research is best done in my current hometown.

Skykitche view

Continue reading “Skykitchen, Restaurant, Berlin”

Merlot, Stekar, 2013

Merlot, Jure Stekar, 2013, red-wine from Slovenia

7,5 points

Jure Stekar often reminds me that I should finally write about his wine. And he’s undoubtedly right, because he produces one of my favorite Merlots. Merlot is such a widespread grape that there are understandably many sommeliers and wine lovers who have no particular affection for this grape variety. Due to the worldwide cultivation of this sort we can experience many different good and interesting wines. In the meantime, there are more than a few wineries in Germany who produce Merlot, including some that make very good wines such as Aldinger from Stuttgart (Bergmandel, Lemberger GG, 2012, Aldinger). Their Merlot of course tastes completely different compared to an unfiltered Merlot from Newton, California for example. What connects the two wines, however, is the proud price, even if the German is much better off.

Jure’s Merlot is not only a very special one because it has its very own character and is made entirely biologically and naturally (even without sulfides), but it is also an inexpensive price for its great quality. Though I probably shouldn’t mention that here because the price of the wine could always go up. However, what might prevent a rise in prices would be the rarely ugly label.

Continue reading “Merlot, Stekar, 2013”

Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Stelo (3rd report)

Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Stelo, Kobarid, Slovenia

8 points

20180901_195746

What should one write when one is utterly speechless from so many impressions and experiences? Sometimes it is said that a good meal or great wine brings one closer to heaven. Seen in this way, Hisa Franko is truly a temple – where one of the greatest goddesses cooks: Ana Ros. Now I do not want to pay limitless homage to her, but I have been to Kobarid again – this time with my partner Stephan Wagner – and it was simply most heavenly, absolutely everything that we ate and drank.

Continue reading “Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Stelo (3rd report)”

Móra, Klinec, 2009

Móra, Klinec, Medana 1. Classe, 2009,  red wine from Slovenia

6,5 points

Here is a review about another wine from one of my favorite wine regions in Europe: Goriška Brda. In this rather small area, some of the most ambitious winemakers produce unique organic wines — recently I read someone calling this area the epicenter of organic wine-making. This description rings true. In addition to organic wine-making, many of the wineries also produce so-called orange wine.

Continue reading “Móra, Klinec, 2009”

Kolos, 2004, Edi Simčič, Goriška Brda

Kolos, 2004, Edi Simčič, Goriška Brda, Red wine from Slovenia

6,5 points

For me it is rather difficult to begin with an article about Slovenian wine, because I know it rather well. So far I wrote only a few reviews about it, perhaps already more than you would find in any other blog. I am big fan of Slovenia, a small country with three very different faces: Alpine, Mediterranean and Balkan. Cuisine and wine in Slovenia are a fusion of these three cultures. There is a – yes we can say – famous chef who represents the variety, richness and capacity of “Slovenian” cooking at its best: Ana Ros. (Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Selo Kobarid (2nd report)). Her husband Valter is responsible for my knowledge of Slovenian wines because he once got me drunk on some extraordinarily good and rare wines.

Continue reading “Kolos, 2004, Edi Simčič, Goriška Brda”

Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Selo (2nd report)

Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Selo, Kobarid, Slovenia

8 points

Returning a year later to Hisa Franko, the home of Ana Ros, I’ve just had another extraordinary culinary experience.

You can find more information about Hisa Franko at https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/04/27/hisa-franko-restaurant-hotel-staro-selo/ and https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/05/03/hisa-franko-restaurant-staro-selo-kobarid-2-report/

Her cooking is among the best in the world. Almost all ingredients are from Slovenia, many coming straight from their own garden; meat and selected fruits and vegetables are sourced from the surrounding area. Continue reading “Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Selo (2nd report)”

Vinogradi Fon, Teran, 2011

Vinogradi Fon, Teran, 2011, Red-wine from Slovenia

7 points

This sort of grapes is called differently depending to the area it grows:  Refosco and Terrano in Italian areas and in Slovenia Refošk and Teran. Reading about Refosco it seems there are some sub-sorts.

Continue reading “Vinogradi Fon, Teran, 2011”

Vinogradi Fon, Vitovska, 2006

Vinogradi Fon, Vitovska, 2006, Marco Fon, White-wine from Slovenia

6 points

As probably most of us we don’t know too much about wines from Slovenia. I already wrote some reports about Slovenian wines (https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/tag/slovenia/) as well as about the wonderful restaurant and pension Hisa Franko (https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/04/27/hisa-franko-restaurant-hotel-staro-selo/).

Continue reading “Vinogradi Fon, Vitovska, 2006”

Edi Simcic, Sauvignon, Goriska Brda, 2006

Edi Simcic, Sauvignon, Goriska Brda, 2006, White-wine from Slovenia

6,5 points

This is another example how outstanding some wines can be from Slovenia. This Sauvignon of Edi Simcic is rich, voluminous and certainly unique. Although nine years old there is a wonderful freshness like morning dew on summer grass, but of course due to the age very powerful and driven by aromas of gooseberries, apple and different herbs. Many Sauvignon Blancs – in particular if they come from the so called the new world areas – have a smoky tone and / or lots of barrique. Edi Simcic invests certainly a lot in this wine: in the vineyard but also a lot in the cellar and he gives his wines a lot of time!

Continue reading “Edi Simcic, Sauvignon, Goriska Brda, 2006”

Blog at WordPress.com.

Up ↑

%d bloggers like this: