Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen


April 2016

Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Restaurant, Berlin (2. report)

Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

7,5 points

It’s actually not so long since I wrote about Nobelhart & Schmutzig – please see my last review here:! The concept of this restaurant is the most radical conceptualization of real regional cuisine; Micha Schäfer and Billy Wagner call it “brutal regional”.

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Bieberbau, Restaurant, Berlin

Bieberbau, Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

6 points

The variety of restaurants in Berlin is really impressive. 19 Michelin Star restaurants (13 with one star, 6 with two stars) among 4650 (!) restaurants in general. The number comes from the municipality of Berlin and it’s not stated clearly whether or not McDonald’s is included in this data. In any case, it’s easy to imagine that there is a lot of competition. Owners and managers of restaurants need to generate special publicity. One may have a great location or a niche cuisine. At Michelin star restaurants certainly, chefs are in the foreground, though according to my observations, flair and atmosphere also count, in particular if you have such strong competition even among top cooks. Yes, you can find any kind of food and cuisine in Berlin. Considering that Berlin between 1945 and 1990 (East and West) was known for poor and rather bad cooking, the development in the past 25 years is impressive.

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Chateau La Lagune, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc, 2010

Chateau La Lagune, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux, 2010, Red-wine from France

6,5 points

At Cave Croisette ( – one of the only places you can visit in Cannes – I recently have been advised to try a Chateau La Lagune. Since I haven’t been at the vinery (yet) I cannot report first hand – but drinking the wine is something special.

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De Noantri, Restaurant, Berlin

De Noantri, Pizza & Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

6,5 points

3,5 points by Alexander van Dülmen

I am pleased that today my friend and critical supporter Gasper Gabrijelcic shares his view of his – of course – “best pizza of the world”:

I am honored to be only the second guest reviewer to be invited to post a review on Alexander’s blog; his son Balthasar having previously enjoyed this distinction (  Needless to say, pizza is a most unique food – it manages to be many contradictory things simultaneously: very personal, totally ubiquitous, and bitterly contentious. Not only does everyone have their own favorite spot which is also, as Alexander puts it, „the best in the world“ (, but these preferences inspire irreconcilable disagreement and occasionally, the desire to „set the record straight.“

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Philippsthal, Restaurant, Philippsthal

Philippsthal, Restaurant, Philippsthal, Germany

5 points

Brandenburg is the “Bundesland” / state which surrounds Berlin. If you leave or arrive in Berlin not by plane you must pass Brandenburg. The very best description of Brandenburg was given ten years ago by German singer and entertainer Rainald Grebe: The country is rather poor, empty and very opposite to everything you would connect with Berlin. Forests, lakes, sandy heathlands and agriculture for potatoes and grain are characteristic of this countryside. As much as you could call it cultural a desert you could call it also a culinary desert.

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