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Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen

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October 2015

Katzebosch, Grauer Burgunder, 2011, Jürgen Leiner

Katzebosch, Grauer Burgunder, 2011, Jürgen Leiner, White-wine from Germany

6,5 points

I said everything about Jürgen Leiner as you can find already two reviews about the remarkable winemaker from German area Pfalz.

Aside of his Riesling (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/04/03/riesling-kalmit-2011-weingut-jurgen-leiner/) and Pinot Noir (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/04/03/spatburgunder-kalmit-weingut-jurgen-leiner-2009/) he also produces a Grauer Burgunder which in French and therefore internationally is a Pinot Gris.

Continue reading “Katzebosch, Grauer Burgunder, 2011, Jürgen Leiner” →

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Asador Guetaria, Bar and Restaurant, Bilbao

Asador Guetaria, Bar and Restaurant, Bilbao, Spain

4,5 points

This place needs getting used to it. The first impression while you enter the location is that you think you are in a fast food kind of bar but certainly not in a restaurant. The real restaurant is in the back! On the way to it you’ll pass the grill station and confidence will return that you made the right choice. The BBQ is huge, hot and at the moment we came along covered by big pieces of meat and some fish. Very alluring.

comedor-principal-restaurante-getariaThe guest room is rather traditional. Unfortunately the main guest room has no window, as far as I could oversee it there wasn’t any access to fresh air. The manager of the restaurant wore a light blue jacket, his tie also colorful but suitable – all together the expression of a special character. Either it is a part of Basque mentality to remain rather reserved or just the style of the restaurant as there remained a strange and incomprehensible distance among service and guest.

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0

d´Arenberg, The Dead Arm, Shiraz, 2005

d´Arenberg, The Dead Arm, Shiraz, 2005, McLaren Vale, red-wine from Australia

6 points

“The Dead Arm” Shiraz is one flagship of Southern Australian winemaker d’Arenberg. Following the description of the vinery then “Dead Arm is a vine disease caused by the fungus Eutypa Lata that randomly affects vineyards all over the world. Often vines affected are severely pruned or replanted. d’Arenberg believes that this is a natural part of vineyard life. One half, or arm of the vine slowly becomes reduced to dead wood. That side may be lifeless and brittle, but the grapes on the other side display amazing intensity”.

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Holger Koch, Pinot Noir ***, 2010

Holger Koch, Pinot Noir *** Selection, Großes Gewächs, Red-wine from Germany

6 points

The variety of Pinot Noir or Spätburgunder as it is called in German is pretty huge. Within Germany I wouldn’t call the differences extreme as there is some kind of characteristics of German Spätburgunder due to weather conditions but also the tradition of winemaking. This said there are clear distinctions among wines from wine areas as Ahr, Pfalz, Wüttemberg or Baden. So far I haven’t written about the wine area of Baden, not only because I actually never have been there. My first German red-wines always came from this area; probably the best know vineyards are called Kaiserstuhl. Kaiserstuhl isn’t one hill but small mountains in the very southern west of Germany. The name was given because German King Otto III held a tribunal at Dec 22nd 994 close to Sasbach which is a smaller village at the bottom of the Kaiserstuhl. These mountains are volcanic genesis which explains the very special soil of this area. Aside of this, it is one of the warmest and mildest areas of Germany.

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2

Domaine de l´Horizon, Rouge, Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes, 2009

Domaine de l´Horizon, Rouge, Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes, 2009, Red wine from France

6,5 points

This is probably the only French wine which is sold more in Germany than in France. For example there are two wine stores in Berlin but only one in Paris where you can buy this delicious wine.

The reason is rather easy. Domaine de l´Horizon was initiated by German oenologist Thomas Treibert. Today it is owned by German wine trading family Christ and him. The vineyards according to their webpage are between 40 and even 100 years old. They produce a clear amount of wines: two white and red ones and one rosé.

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15 East, Restaurant, New York

15 East, Japanese Restaurant, New York, USA

7,5 points

Once a while ago introduced by my friend David L. Molner I discovered one of my absolute favored restaurants in the world: 15 East! The name is the address: 15 East, Manhatten.

Although you can find reviews about Sushi restaurants time by time at this blog, (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/06/12/nobo-budapest/) Japanese cuisine – sushi, sashimi etc. – is usually not my most preferred food. It is always a very welcomed alternative as it is fresh, in certain regards light and probably healthier than much other stuff. The most problematic aspect about this food is that it needs to be fresh and it – let’s be honest – needs people who are ready to pay decent amounts of money for it. Both aspects are probably the reason why we can’t find too many really excellent Japanese Restaurants in Europe (in particular Germany) comparing to USA.

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