Chardonnay, Gesellmann, Steinriegel, 2013, Burgenland, White-wine from Austria

4,5 Points

Gesellmann is a prestigious and long established vinery of Austrian wine region Burgenland / Deutschkreuz. Although they produce white and red, red dominates their variety of wine. Some of the reds are pretty well known and have been awared during last years. Those belong to the best from Austria.

You can be certain – even not having been at the vinery personally – that the Gesellmanns are very professional, passionate and excellent wine makers – since some generations. Burgenland, in East of Austria, is one of the most important wine areas. Steinriegel is one of their vineyards which as the name already says is rather stony (Stein = stone). Following the description of Gesellmann’s webpage the soil of Steinriegel is loose lime.Gesellmann_Weinkeller.jpg

Although the vineyard means a lot I believe this chardonnay – or let me say – the character of the wine is created in the cellar. It is a heavy, if not ostentatious wine and very wooden. By the very first nip it is clear you got a voluminous chardonnay which could come from California but not really from Austria. This wine would fulfil any expectation of what many of us would call a global approach of fashionable chardonnays, suitable rather as an aperitif at the fire place than for some fine dinner. This isn’t meant badly as of course many would enjoy this wine along any kind of food as well. But I am afraid the wine would be too dominant for any light or delicate dish.

Based on some and even missing minerality there are aromas of lemon, kiwi and elder. You find caramel, honey notes of herbals and flavors of grass. But it is too creamy and too heavy and I miss a play of all those aromas. The frame of all is barrique which does not provide the balances I would like to have. It is a solid wine, less finesse, not really elegant and without surprises.

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Just to avoid any misunderstanding: you taste the effort and craft men’s work by every nip.

Please find more about the wine at a very nice webpage of http://www.gesellmann.at/