Loimer, Langenlois, Käferberg, Grüner Veltliner, 2008, Kamptal Reserve
One of my most beloved and favored winemakers of Austria is Fred Loimer from Langenlois at the bottom of the Kamptal which is in the Austrian area called Niederösterreich (Lower Austria). This is certainly one of the rather less developed regions of Austria as there is almost no tourism, no industry and mainly farming. Anyhow, you can find some really interesting wine making there. The most of the wine of Niederösterreich is comparable easy and mostly “home-made”.
While Austrian wine industry still tried to shake off last effects of huge adulterate wine scandal in the middle of eighties there were some and not too less young and ambitious wine makers who re-built rather quietly but very substantially the real Austrian wine tradition. Likewise with today’s fashionable regionalism these guys – being down to earth but visionable – focused on their partly excellent vineyards and committed to real, natural and sometimes even organic winemaking. Taking in consideration that the climax of Austrian wine scandal happened already 30 (!) years ago, you can understand two elementary things: a) the damage this scandal caused had very long-term bad consequences unfortunately and b) a new generation of winemakers of Austria – which aren’t youngster also anymore – have been perhaps more motivated than without this history to produce best wines. Some of wines from Burgenland, Kamptal and Wachau toady belong to world’s top league wines.
Fred Loimer is on of those. But he also decided to give his wines more time than some others. He has been perhaps more careful and more ruthless in regard to the right choose of vines and existing natural sources – the soil, the selection of grapes and in particular with him the work in the cellar.
His best wines – similar to any Grand Cru in France – mature in oak for much more time usually white wines are. The result isn’t similar to many comparable wines as they stay remarkable fresh although they are rich, complex and full of amazing flowerful notes. So far I haven’t seen any more impressive wine cellars than those of Fred Loimer. Up to 60 meters if I remember correctly like mines into the hills!
Loimer’s estate is in Langenlois at the lower length of a smaller river named Kamp. Kamptal DAC is within the global wine scene a famous and also valuable label. I would say the best wines from there is Grüner Veltliner – the most Austrian wine sort – but you can find a lot Riesling, too. Fred Loimer is a special guy if I can say so. On the one side really down to earth, passionate and committed to his home area, on the other side curious and inquisitive about other areas as well, ways of winemaking and ecological “correctness”. I remember when I met him maybe five years ago he just decided not to fill anymore his top wines into heavier but nicer wine bottle. Too much weight causes higher transportation energy (not only costs).
He was introduced by Billy Wagner (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/09/18/nobelhart-schmutzig-restaurant-berlin/) actually not because of his wines of Langenlois but a selection of wines which were presented under the name and co-produced with another winemaker: Gottfried Schellmann. The brand “In der Südbahn” (train connection from Vienna to Graz which passes some wine areas of Austria as well).
Some nights ago I opened a 2008 (!) Langlois Käferberg, Grüner Veltliner. First thing I want to say: it is perfect to drink now and how good it was storing it so long. What a wonderful, delicious and beautiful wine. 2008 wasn’t an easy year at all according to many reports. Whatever this could mean: Fred Loimer did a great job seven years ago and customers seem to confirm this since the prices of a bottle grow but bearing in mind quality it isn’t too massive; you still can get a Magnum of this vintage for € 77 (!) (http://loimer-shop.at/kaeferberg-gruner-veltliner-weingut-fred-loimer-201.html).
The wine is rich tastes of summarily herbs and grass. It is like you first smell and then drink the flowers of a beautiful Austrian meadow full of flowers like marguerites, dandelions, chamomile, anise and simply green grass. Fruits are pear, matures apple and a little bit elder. The wine is very aromatic and condimental, even sliced notes of tobacco are present. Quintessentially a perfect wine!
All the wines of Loimer are organic and biodynamic!
Please find here the beautiful webpage of Fred Loimer: http://loimer.at/en/. You can find wines of Fred Loimer in meantime all over the world. Among my reviews you can find some of his wines at Weinbar Rutz in Berlin (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/03/04/weinbar-rutz-berlin-3/), at 15East in New York (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/10/03/15-east-restaurant-new-york/) or at Billy Wagner’s restaurant Nobelhardt & Schmutzig.