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Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen

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Organic Wine

Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Selo Kobarid (2nd report)

Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Selo Kobarid, Slovenia

8 points

Returning a year later to Hisa Franko, the home of Ana Ros, I’ve just had another extraordinary culinary experience.

You can find more information about Hisa Franko at https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/04/27/hisa-franko-restaurant-hotel-staro-selo/ and https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/05/03/hisa-franko-restaurant-staro-selo-kobarid-2-report/

Her cooking is among the best in the world. Almost all ingredients are from Slovenia, many coming straight from their own garden; meat and selected fruits and vegetables are sourced from the surrounding area. Continue reading “Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Selo Kobarid (2nd report)”

Clos Saint Joseph, Blanc de Blancs, 2014, Villars-sur-Var

Clos Saint Joseph, Blanc de Blancs, 2014, Villars-sur-Var, white wine from France

6 points

Another really special wine from Roch Zassi of vinery Clos Saint Joseph is a classical Blanc de Blancs. Please find more about the winery at https://avdwineandfood.net/2016/05/29/clos-saint-joseph-syrah-2013-villars-sur-var/#more-3729

This white blend has a very rare taste – it is pretty ambitious, considering its amazing array of flavors and aromas. It reminds one a bit of a Sancerre, with its slightly salty ground. In contrast to this, the wine is more acidic than any Chardonnay or comparable French blend. Aside from the saltiness, the wine is fresh and carries a very enjoyable minerality. There are all flavors of summer grass as chrysanthemum, chamomile and even dandelion. Elderberry, gooseberry and kiwi – a very exciting mixture: almost exotic but still grounded due to the stony tone of the soil. You would think this wine would need some time in the barrel, but this one didn’t mature in barrique – it’s only steel.

Continue reading “Clos Saint Joseph, Blanc de Blancs, 2014, Villars-sur-Var”

Clos Saint-Joseph, Syrah, 2013, Villars sur Var

Clos Saint-Joseph, Syrah, 2013, Villars sur Var, Red wine from France

7 points

Perhaps the first thing I should say about this wine: it is too young! It could be better to let this wine age one more year before selling it. Since Roch Sassi produces only a few hundred bottles per year of this remarkable red wine, it’s not terribly easy to buy wines from him. Because the wine is of great quality and has a very special character,  you would expect that his wines are pre-sold anyhow, although they aren’t.

WP_20160406_013 Continue reading “Clos Saint-Joseph, Syrah, 2013, Villars sur Var”

Foradori, Fuoripista, Pinot Grigio, 2014

Foradori, Fuoripista, Pinot Grigio, 2014, White wine from Italy

6,5 points

I don’t actually know  anyone (!) who wouldn’t praise Elisabetta Foradori as one of the most innovative, inspiring but also dogmatic winemakers in Europe – if not to say in the world. All of her wines are organic and biodynamic. She has a very strong focus on grapes which have their home where her home is: in the southern Dolomites – Trentino. Trentino is in rorthern Italy and is part of the southern Alps. The soil of this region is always influenced by the mountain area. Like wines from Alto Adige, Valais or Brda, regional wines from Trentino are wines of the Alps.

Continue reading “Foradori, Fuoripista, Pinot Grigio, 2014”

Damien Coquelet, Beaujolais-Villages, 2015

Damien Coquelet, -Villages, 2015, „Les Bourrons“, Red-wine from France

5,5 points

My personal association of Beaujolais is bad if not appalling. The hype of Beaujolais Primeur: much too young, extreme fruity wine of low quality bought and drunk by British. Yes, British are known for bad taste – and as much as many of good British friends of mine would disagree – majority of British at least have a very strange taste.

Continue reading “Damien Coquelet, Beaujolais-Villages, 2015”

Grüner Veltliner, Steinleithn, 2009, Geyerhof

7 points

Grüner Veltliner, Steinleithn, 2009, DAC Reserve, Geyerhof, Kremstal, White-wine from Austria

Krems is a little Austrian town on Danube, maybe 100 km upstream of Vienna. A small side valley of a stream called also Krems gives this wine area which is of a manageable size its name. It verges to two other wine areas Wachau and Kamptal. The Krems valley is rather rich of different soils. Although Danube dominates the countryside, traffic- and infrastructures the little valley offers a niche home for some great winemakers. One of them is the vinery Geyerhof in Oberfucha. Already since 1988 (!) family Meyer produce only organic wines.

Continue reading “Grüner Veltliner, Steinleithn, 2009, Geyerhof”

Loimer, Langenlois, Käferberg, Grüner Veltliner, 2008

Loimer, Langenlois, Käferberg, Grüner Veltliner, 2008, Kamptal Reserve

7,5 points

One of my most beloved and favored winemakers of Austria is Fred Loimer from Langenlois at the bottom of the Kamptal which is in the Austrian area called Niederösterreich (Lower Austria). This is certainly one of the rather less developed regions of Austria as there is almost no tourism, no industry and mainly farming. Anyhow, you can find some really interesting wine making there. The most of the wine of Niederösterreich is comparable easy and mostly “home-made”.

Continue reading “Loimer, Langenlois, Käferberg, Grüner Veltliner, 2008”

Katzebosch, Grauer Burgunder, 2011, Jürgen Leiner

Katzebosch, Grauer Burgunder, 2011, Jürgen Leiner, White-wine from Germany

6,5 points

I said everything about Jürgen Leiner as you can find already two reviews about the remarkable winemaker from German area Pfalz.

Aside of his Riesling (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/04/03/riesling-kalmit-2011-weingut-jurgen-leiner/) and Pinot Noir (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/04/03/spatburgunder-kalmit-weingut-jurgen-leiner-2009/) he also produces a Grauer Burgunder which in French and therefore internationally is a Pinot Gris.

Continue reading “Katzebosch, Grauer Burgunder, 2011, Jürgen Leiner”

Domaine de l´Horizon, Rouge, Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes, 2009

Domaine de l´Horizon, Rouge, Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes, 2009, Red wine from France

6,5 points

This is probably the only French wine which is sold more in Germany than in France. For example there are two wine stores in Berlin but only one in Paris where you can buy this delicious wine.

The reason is rather easy. Domaine de l´Horizon was initiated by German oenologist Thomas Treibert. Today it is owned by German wine trading family Christ and him. The vineyards according to their webpage are between 40 and even 100 years old. They produce a clear amount of wines: two white and red ones and one rosé.

Continue reading “Domaine de l´Horizon, Rouge, Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes, 2009”

Vinogradi Fon, Teran, 2011

Vinogradi Fon, Teran, 2011, Red-wine from Slovenia

7 points

This sort of grapes is called differently depending to the area it grows:  Refosco and Terrano in Italian areas and in Slovenia Refošk and Teran. Reading about Refosco it seems there are some sub-sorts.

Continue reading “Vinogradi Fon, Teran, 2011”

Vinogradi Fon, Vitovska, 2006

Vinogradi Fon, Vitovska, 2006, Marco Fon, White-wine from Slovenia

6 points

As probably most of us we don’t know too much about wines from Slovenia. I already wrote some reports about Slovenian wines (https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/tag/slovenia/) as well as about the wonderful restaurant and pension Hisa Franko (https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/04/27/hisa-franko-restaurant-hotel-staro-selo/).

Continue reading “Vinogradi Fon, Vitovska, 2006”

Kurni, 2008

Kurni, Montepulciano Rosso IGT, 2008, Oasi degli Angelis Kurni

8 points

Very seldom you get a wine which is so original, so unique, so astonishing and simply fantastic. It is almost impossible to believe that this is pure Montepulciano. Kurni is the name of one of best wines from Italy I know.

Many years ago we ordered a wine in noble restaurant in Moscow named Bolshoi. The sommelier apologized because the selected wine wasn’t available but recommended a Kurni! My life would be poorer if the other wine would have been still available and I have’nt met this sommelier! I never heard about Kurni and – honestly since I hadn’t to pay – I agreed to take it also because the wine was very expensive. Really every single drop was worth each kopek! I became curious and wanted to know more about the winemaker, in particular because the wine comes from the region Marche which is rather unknown and unpopular.

Continue reading “Kurni, 2008”

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