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Alexander van Dülmen

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France

Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel, 1999

Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel, 1999, Red wine from France

7 points

For starters, here’s a link to my review of another Pinot Noir from Nicolas Potel – Clos Vouget Grand Cru, 1997: Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel, 1997. If you like, please read this review, perhaps even first, because I wrote about Nicolas Potel, his wine-making philosophy, and the area. So I won’t repeat all of that here.

This particular wine of his is from 1999 and comes from vineyards of the area in northern Burgundy called Gevrey-Chambertin, so, still very much in the middle of famous Burgundy wine region. Continue reading “Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel, 1999”

Bandol sur Mer, Restaurant, Berlin

Bandol sur Mer, Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

7 points

In German, we have the word „Kulinarik“. The German language contains so many substantives that describe a very specific thing very precisely. Translating this word into English is a challenge, and I am curious to know how any reader of this blog who speaks German and English would translate it. According to leo.org, one of the best online dictionaries, I should use the term “culinary art”. Although I don’t really think that this is a correct description of my understanding of “Kulinarik”, I like very much that it connects it with art. This said, Berlin’s Kulinarik has such great variety, incomparable with many other places in the world. Perhaps only New York and Chicago. A Michelin star punk restaurant, probably possible only in Berlin!

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Continue reading “Bandol sur Mer, Restaurant, Berlin”

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel, 1997

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel, 1997, Red wine from France

7 points

I’ve hesitated to write about Nicolas Potel since there are already so many interesting articles and reports online about him. I also missed two chances to meet him in person. I’ve appreciated his wine-making for a long time, although it has to be added that I haven’t tried any of his wines younger than five or six years. Part of his biography is quite affecting as – according different sources – he experienced the early death of his father, whom he was meant to succeed as the operating manager of the Domaine de La Pousse d’Or in Volnay. He made his way and actually became one of the most relevant and legendary winemakers of Burgundy. His name on any label ennobles excellent reds from the Cote d’Or vineyards. He did not become owner of his “own” vineyard or winery, but, since very the end of the nineties, he’s been producing his wines from purchased grapes and wines. Someone called him a négociant – although I guess the real meaning of this description would fit the wine “dealers” in Bordeaux better than the passionate winemaker  Nicolas Potel certainly is.

Continue reading “Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Nicolas Potel, 1997”

Chateau Brillette, Moulin de Médoc, 2006

Chateau Brillette, Moulin de Médoc, 2006, Grand Vin de Bordeaux, Red wine from France

4,5 points

This wine is much nicer than I expected! Spicy, dark berries, very dry, with strong tannins, but still very enjoyable. There is tobacco and even a note of bitter chocolate. The wine is full-bodied and quite potent. However, somehow it’s like a volcano that just can’t explode due to being covered by a huge layer of stones. You’re always expecting that something might still happen with this wine, but it doesn’t. For what it is: it’s good wine! A Bordeaux blend which is affordable, made from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and little bit of Petit Verdot. In other appellations, the winemaker would add Cabernet Franc, which of course could make the wine a bit more elegant. This certainly wasn’t the intention of this maker; therefore it’s a rather bulky if not a fat wine. If I were asked what’s missing, I would say: some elegance. Continue reading “Chateau Brillette, Moulin de Médoc, 2006”

Chateau Pape Clement, 1986

Chateau Pape Clement, 1986, Grand Cru Classe De Graves, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, Red wine from France

8 points

Chateau Pape Clement, named after Pope Clement V (1305 – 1324), is one of the oldest Grands Crus de BordeClément_V_Rome_bibliothèque_Palatineaux. Clement V’s real name was Bertrand de Goth, from Bordeaux – thus the connection. You may immediately think of Chateauneuf du Pape when you first see a bottle of Chateau Pape Clement, since a pontifical insignia gilds the label, but Pape Clement is indeed another wine, belonging among the top Bordeaux wines.

Continue reading “Chateau Pape Clement, 1986”

Minuty Prestige Rose, 2014, Cotes de Provence

Minuty Prestige Rose, 2014, Cotes de Provence, Rosé from France

2 points

According to online advertising, this wine should be one of best rosé wines from  Provence. The bottle’s appearance – its silver label with gold lettering on a transparent bottle – certainly fits the image and lifestyle of the Cote d’Azur. The whole image projects lightness, freshness, youth and also coolness, chicness and elitism. Continue reading “Minuty Prestige Rose, 2014, Cotes de Provence”

Clos Saint Joseph, Blanc de Blancs, 2014, Villars-sur-Var

Clos Saint Joseph, Blanc de Blancs, 2014, Villars-sur-Var, white wine from France

6 points

Another really special wine from Roch Zassi of vinery Clos Saint Joseph is a classical Blanc de Blancs. Please find more about the winery at https://avdwineandfood.net/2016/05/29/clos-saint-joseph-syrah-2013-villars-sur-var/#more-3729

This white blend has a very rare taste – it is pretty ambitious, considering its amazing array of flavors and aromas. It reminds one a bit of a Sancerre, with its slightly salty ground. In contrast to this, the wine is more acidic than any Chardonnay or comparable French blend. Aside from the saltiness, the wine is fresh and carries a very enjoyable minerality. There are all flavors of summer grass as chrysanthemum, chamomile and even dandelion. Elderberry, gooseberry and kiwi – a very exciting mixture: almost exotic but still grounded due to the stony tone of the soil. You would think this wine would need some time in the barrel, but this one didn’t mature in barrique – it’s only steel.

Continue reading “Clos Saint Joseph, Blanc de Blancs, 2014, Villars-sur-Var”

La Bastide Saint Antoine, Restaurant, Grasse

La Bastide Saint Antoine, Restaurant, Grasse, France

6,5 points

This isn’t only a restaurant but a very beautiful residence, comprising a few buildings which are used as hotel, spa and relaxation zones. Surrounded by a park of olive trees, sculptures and a botanic garden, you feel yourself calming down from the first moment, and you really feel a kind of spirit of Provence – although it is on the Cote de Azur.

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Continue reading “La Bastide Saint Antoine, Restaurant, Grasse”

Tetou, Restaurant, Golfe Juan

Tetou, Restaurant, Golfe Juan, France

3 points

What is the right description: brazenness, presumptuousness and / or hubris? Or is it: exclusiveness, exceptional quality and / or “superbe”? Certainly it is “genial” – brilliant – a place you hate or you love. I cannot believe that there is lot space between.

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Continue reading “Tetou, Restaurant, Golfe Juan”

Chateau La Lagune, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc, 2010

Chateau La Lagune, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux, 2010, Red-wine from France

6,5 points

At Cave Croisette (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/03/06/bistro-and-winebar-cave-croisette-cannes-2/) – one of the only places you can visit in Cannes – I recently have been advised to try a Chateau La Lagune. Since I haven’t been at the vinery (yet) I cannot report first hand – but drinking the wine is something special.

Continue reading “Chateau La Lagune, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc, 2010”

Damien Coquelet, Beaujolais-Villages, 2015

Damien Coquelet, -Villages, 2015, „Les Bourrons“, Red-wine from France

5,5 points

My personal association of Beaujolais is bad if not appalling. The hype of Beaujolais Primeur: much too young, extreme fruity wine of low quality bought and drunk by British. Yes, British are known for bad taste – and as much as many of good British friends of mine would disagree – majority of British at least have a very strange taste.

Continue reading “Damien Coquelet, Beaujolais-Villages, 2015”

Pomerol, Château Cantelauze, 2000

Pomerol, Château Cantelauze, Jean Noel Boidron, 2000, red-wine from France

6,5 points

It is very probably senseless writing about “Pomerol” since really everything seems to be said. There are thousand more experts and each of them would certainly know more than me. I make it short: Pomerol is one of the much well known and respected wine areas and application in the Eastern region of Bordeaux (right side of Dordogne). It is considered being one the very best locations for wine in the world, some of the wines from Pomerol are really famous but also extremely expensive. Maybe two aspects are reasonable to name: the application of Pomerol does not know a classification system all reputation and reference of a wine is related to the vinery and its brand. The prices differences between vineries which even immediate neighbors are completely inexplicable as there are ranges of some hundred, sometimes even thousand Euros per bottle!

Continue reading “Pomerol, Château Cantelauze, 2000”

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