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Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen

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Wine

Speicherhotel Barth

Speicherhotel Barth, Barth, Germany

5 points for the hotel

3 points for the restaurant

It is more than 15 years (!) ago that I discovered this hotel. Perhaps only my second or third time at the Baltic Sea (Ostsee) we stood at a peninsula called Darß (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dar%C3%9F) one the most beautiful areas of Germany (Two to three hours driving from Berlin). It a place of peace, relaxation and refreshment! The fresh breeze from the sea, amazing play of colors of sky and light and surprising changes of weather make for a unique and marvelous getaway.


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Crossing a bridge from Zingst, a village on Darß, toward the mainland brings you to Barth. 15 years ago – ten years after “DDR” (German Democratic Republic) – Barth is somehow a perfect case study of the transformation process within Germany.

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Marcqués del Hueco, Rioja, 2012

Marcqués del Hueco, Rioja, 2012, Vendimia Seleccionada, red wine from Spain

4,5 points

Unfortunately I don’t know anything about Spanish wine. Since I am a subscriber of a degustation packet of German’s daily newspaper Süddeutsche Zeitung every three months I have the chance to get to know new wines. As always, sometimes it is rather disappointing, sometimes one can discover something new and compelling. So I opened a bottle of Marcqués del Hueco, a Rioja. I was actually astonished and very pleased! If every unknown wine were so good and digestible I would be really happy.

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Milijan Jelic, Chardonnay, 2011

Milijan Jelic, Chardonnay, 2011, Valjevo, white wine from Serbia

1 point

This wine is another attempt to adapt the taste of American Chardonnay, although the area Milijan Jelic makes wine is obviously somewhere else. It is in Serbia – which makes its interesting to taste, and since it isn’t cheap you would expect something special. Unfortunately, it isn’t interesting or surprising.

It is very golden in colour. It has a rather nice smell although not terribly special. The wine has recognizable quality but is a mixture of rather flat aromas. It is too sweet and I don’t think it is reasonable for this wine to have so much barrique – oaky – tones.

The labels looks a bit like the wine tastes….

Serve it very cold, then perhaps the sweetness won’t completely over some other undiscovered flavors.

For further information, please see at http://www.milijanjelic.com/en/

Sole, Chardonnay, 2014, Recas

Sole, Chardonnay Barrique, 2014, de Recas, white wine from Romania

2,5 points

According to the back label, there are only 25,000 bottles of this wine, which is produced from Recas’s best vineyards – “Dealul Tiganulul” or “Gispey Hill”. It was given to me by a brave Romanian who told me about the surprising quality of this Romanian chardonnay. I have always been surprised by interesting and good wines from Romania. But I believe I was always tasting only the top wines  – since the people who offered me some of these wines knew that I like wine and pretend to understand something about it.

Until then I had only tried red wines – this was the first white.

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Cosimo Taurino A 64, 2003, Salento

Cosimo Taurino A 64, 2003, Salento, Puglia, red wine from Italy

4,5 points

Sometimes there are moments when you are tired and exhausted. You look for something that will make you happy because you want to treat yourself. The very best wines of the world aren’t suitable for these moments, since you shouldn’t really drink expensive or extraordinary wine when you’re so fatigued. Outstanding wines are elegant and should be enjoyed at the right time, perhaps along with some very good food as well as, probably, with some friends. Cosimo Taurino is the perfect wine for what I’ve described above, it is only for you: it is rich, heavy, pretty voluminous and has quite a bit of alcohol (14,5%!).

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Juliusspital, 2008 Würzburger Stein, Riesling GG

German Riesling from Würzburg

4 points

After more than two years I opened my last Bocksbeutel (the name of the special form of a bottle of wine from the Main area) of a Riesling from a pretty big wine producer from Würzburg called Juliusspital. My favorite of these wines is the Weißer Burgunder. Nevertheless tonight I am drinking a 2008 Würzburger Stein GG. It is wonderful, pretty heavy, rich and voluminous. It iWP_20150218_002s incorporable different than other great German Riesling as it isn’t too mineral and sour. Riesling isn’t gold of course in a glass, but if you would like to find a color of the taste you would take rather golden white wines as a reference. I opened the bottle today (18.2.2015) also because I had Nürnberger Bratwürstel, Sauerkraut and Kartoffelbrei (Nürnberger sausages, sauerkraut and mashed potatos); for this earthy and intense food it was a good complement.

In general you can buy Juliusspital’s wine  at their own website but also, for example, at the Kaufhof Galeria at Alexanderplatz in Berlin. I doubt you will find the 2008 vintages in any store, but you never know!

Cheers

Saint Salonuis, Pinot Noir, Abbaye Le Lerins, 2008

Saint Salonuis, Pinot Noir, Ile Saint Honorat, Vine de Pays des Mediterrainée, 2008, red-wine from France

6,5 points

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The first time I drank this wine was at Cave Crevette in Cannes. I was looking for something unknown and had asked for something really local – and surprisingly they proposed a Pinot Noir from an island in the south of Cannes: Ile Saint Honorat. Obviously being very curious to taste a local Pinot Noir, this wine became a big discovery.

We all know that there is one domain of Pinot Noir in France, which is obviously Burgundy, and that many people would say this is the only area for something authentic – which is clearly stupid – since there are fantastic Pinot Noirs also in Germany, New Zealand, Hungary or even in Southern Tirol. There is one other little island which delivers fantastic French Pinot Noir.

You would expect to find grapes such as Syrah, Grenache or Mourvèdre in this region, but certainly not Pinot Noir. For me, this wine is one of the best but also one of the most unique Pinot Noir I know of. It is somehow very voluminous but also remarkably fresh. There is a note of pepper and you might even think you detect some salt in it. The soil must be rocky and stony as the wine has some unique mineral quality. Probably this has something to do with the weather conditions but perhaps the wind is different than on the mainland.

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Bistro and Winebar Cave Croisette, Cannes

Cannes: Cave Croisette at Rue de Antibes

5 points

Everyone who knows me also knows how much I dislike Cannes. However, due to my business, I had to be there quite often.

WP_000737If you prefer to stay away from the touristic areas and horrifying food alleyways, if you like to avoid the grotesque freaks with some super models at the Croisette, and if you’d rather be around “normal” people, you should visit a small Brasserie and wine bar called Cave Crevette, at the beginning of Rue de Antibes. See here.

There is a very nice and nimble lady running this place – if I remember right, her name is Isabelle. The service is perfect and incomparably fast, considering the southern French and in particular Cannes waiter. As I was told, she is from the north of France as an explanation for her diligence.

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Schloss Proschwitz, Spätburgunder, 2009 Proschwitz

Schloss Proschwitz, Spätburgunder, 2009, red-wine from Germany

4 points

Schloss Proschwitz is a winery close to Meissen in Saxonia. Meissen is world famous because of its porcelain manufactory and its historical prominent assemble of its cathedral and castle called Albrechtsburg.

Burgberg mit Albrechtsburg und Dom (Leander Wattig)
Burgberg mit Albrechtsburg und Dom (Leander Wattig)

Schloss Proschwitz is one of the main and well known wineries in this area nevertheless many people who like wine would not expect some special wines from the north of Dresden. It is indeed a pretty northern region but because of this it may is even more surprising and interesting that you can discover some very notable wines. Continue reading “Schloss Proschwitz, Spätburgunder, 2009 Proschwitz”

Cháteau Beau Séjours, 1998

Cháteau Beau Séjours, 1998, Bordeaux, St. Emelion Gran Cru, Red wine from France

5,5 points

I stumbled upon this bottle in my mother’s cellar. Not knowing anything particular about this wine, we just decided to open and decant it.

Simply speaking: very delicious but somehow stronger tannins than I am used to. The whole tasting experience was a graceful one, although it lacked some depth. There were a lot of flavors like dry fruits as plums and some real country flavors. Nevertheless, this wine wasn’t really filigree. Perhaps it would have been better to give the wine more than an hour air before you sip the first glass.

My drinking experiences is older than this blog. We tasted the wine more than one year ago. Hopefully it wasn’t too early.

It is probably not possible to get this wine (and vintage) at any store. Here is the website of the winemaker: http://www.beausejour-becot.com/

Merengö, St. Andrea, 2006

Merengö Egri Bikavér superior 2006, St. Andrea, Red wine from Hungary

6,5 points

My favorite Hungarian wine maker is St. Andrea (http://www.standrea.hu/). So far I haven’t had a chance to visit them, although this is a producer I would really like to get to know. They produce a variety of wines: white and red, from typical grapes of the Eger wine region in Hungary, but also Pinot Noir. Most of the wines of St. Andrea are cuvées.

While I’m a big fan of their Pinot Noir, the most prestigious and certainly also their top wine is called Merengö. It is a cuvée made from ca. 50% Kékfrankos, then Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

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Weinbar Rutz, Berlin

Restaurant and Winebar in Berlin

7 points

As many of my friends know, my favorite restaurant in Berlin is WEINBAR RUTZ . There are hundreds of trendy places, a remarkable number of Michelin star restaurants in the city and probably some location with a lot of good wine as well. But there isn’t any other place comparable to this one.

It is an easy but unique concept as at the lower level you have rather a food-bar or tavern with slightly more basic but fantastic dishes along the motto “Save the German Food Culture”. You get blood sausages or some liverwurst or rutabaga stew or – at least at the moment “crispy haddock, chestnust, red cabbage and baked kale – but also just a solid “home” aged steak. All this usually is not served with a typical German beer but with the best mostly German (white) wines. You would only very seldom get such high quality wine by the glass anywhere else. This place offers you even sometime a Großes Gewächs (which is similar to a Grand Cru) by the glass and if you become a “friend” of the house, they might open a bottle just for you without letting you buy the entire bottle if you didn’t drink it. If you go for first floor, please ask for the table in front of the kitchen because then you can watch my friend Marco Müller preparing the plates with his amazing and always surprising culinary art and extraordinary taste experience. Here you encounter Chinese or other Asian flavors combined with regional ingredients and condiments. Marco is always spunky enough to present unusual and sometimes, I would say, experimental combinations of taste.

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