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Alexander van Dülmen

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Germany

De Noantri, Restaurant, Berlin

De Noantri, Pizza & Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

6,5 points

3,5 points by Alexander van Dülmen

I am pleased that today my friend and critical supporter Gasper Gabrijelcic shares his view of his – of course – “best pizza of the world”:

I am honored to be only the second guest reviewer to be invited to post a review on Alexander’s blog; his son Balthasar having previously enjoyed this distinction (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/02/27/arco-antico-pizzaria-san-marco-di-locorotondo/).  Needless to say, pizza is a most unique food – it manages to be many contradictory things simultaneously: very personal, totally ubiquitous, and bitterly contentious. Not only does everyone have their own favorite spot which is also, as Alexander puts it, „the best in the world“ (https://avdwineandfood.net/2016/02/19/pizza-piazza-rossa-berlin/), but these preferences inspire irreconcilable disagreement and occasionally, the desire to „set the record straight.“

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Philippsthal, Restaurant, Philippsthal

Philippsthal, Restaurant, Philippsthal, Germany

5 points

Brandenburg is the “Bundesland” / state which surrounds Berlin. If you leave or arrive in Berlin not by plane you must pass Brandenburg. The very best description of Brandenburg was given ten years ago by German singer and entertainer Rainald Grebe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uellmynA34U. The country is rather poor, empty and very opposite to everything you would connect with Berlin. Forests, lakes, sandy heathlands and agriculture for potatoes and grain are characteristic of this countryside. As much as you could call it cultural a desert you could call it also a culinary desert.

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Angkor Wat, Restaurant, Berlin

Angkor Wat, Cambodian Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

5,5 points

Cambodian Food is different than Vietnamese or Thai. Of course there are many similarities but if you take in consideration how many Vietnamese restaurants there are in Berlin, I think it is important to mention. It is perhaps like Austrians would insists that their cooking is different to the Bavarian way of cooking. For someone coming from Australia or USA it probably is rather difficult to recognize huge differences.

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Pizza “Piazza Rossa”, Berlin

Piazza Rossa, Pizzeria, Berlin, Germany

5 points

Pizza!

Probably one of the most incomparable dinner! Let us be precise: Italian pizza. Is there anyone who never had a pizza? Very seldom I believe.

Almost fast food.

Kid’s food. Family food. Compromising food. Extreme rich in varieties. Pizza with pineapple…..

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The Grand, Restaurant, Berlin

The Grand, Restaurant and Bar, Berlin, Germany

5,5 points

Being asked many times about the best steak house in Berlin I always miss to name “The Grand”. Maybe because it is somehow a “trendy” place for posers of film, music and fashion. This bar and restaurant belongs to hot spots where German celebrities as Til Schweiger party birthday or during fashion weeks hip fashion brands invite for exclusive, very cool events. Am I jealous not being a member of this VIP world or do I hate shallowness? Indeed, I do not like share my time with braggy cockalorums! And a part of The Grand’s target audience are such subjects which leaves one sometimes with an ambivalent feeling!

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La Cantina, Restaurant, Melsungen

La Cantina, Restaurant, Melsungen, Germany

2 points

Once I am driving long distance I try to avoid having a brake at the most of Autobahngestätten / Fast Food stations along the highway. I rather take some exit on the way and get into smaller towns or even villiages for a restaurant or local inn.

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Horváth, Restaurant, Berlin

Horváth, Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

7 points

There are two really interesting similarities between Nobelhart & Schmutzig (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/09/18/nobelhart-schmutzig-restaurant-berlin/) and the restaurant Horvath in Berlin: both had sturgeon and chicken on their menu at their main courses. The philosophy is perhaps not even too different either as both chefs are using local ingredient – vegetables, fishes and meat – almost only out of the region around Berlin a bit farther. The chicken wasn’t from Brandenburg but Schleswig-Holstein, a northern county of Germany.

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Katzebosch, Grauer Burgunder, 2011, Jürgen Leiner

Katzebosch, Grauer Burgunder, 2011, Jürgen Leiner, White-wine from Germany

6,5 points

I said everything about Jürgen Leiner as you can find already two reviews about the remarkable winemaker from German area Pfalz.

Aside of his Riesling (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/04/03/riesling-kalmit-2011-weingut-jurgen-leiner/) and Pinot Noir (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/04/03/spatburgunder-kalmit-weingut-jurgen-leiner-2009/) he also produces a Grauer Burgunder which in French and therefore internationally is a Pinot Gris.

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Holger Koch, Pinot Noir ***, 2010

Holger Koch, Pinot Noir *** Selection, Großes Gewächs, Red-wine from Germany

6 points

The variety of Pinot Noir or Spätburgunder as it is called in German is pretty huge. Within Germany I wouldn’t call the differences extreme as there is some kind of characteristics of German Spätburgunder due to weather conditions but also the tradition of winemaking. This said there are clear distinctions among wines from wine areas as Ahr, Pfalz, Wüttemberg or Baden. So far I haven’t written about the wine area of Baden, not only because I actually never have been there. My first German red-wines always came from this area; probably the best know vineyards are called Kaiserstuhl. Kaiserstuhl isn’t one hill but small mountains in the very southern west of Germany. The name was given because German King Otto III held a tribunal at Dec 22nd 994 close to Sasbach which is a smaller village at the bottom of the Kaiserstuhl. These mountains are volcanic genesis which explains the very special soil of this area. Aside of this, it is one of the warmest and mildest areas of Germany.

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Domaine de l´Horizon, Rouge, Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes, 2009

Domaine de l´Horizon, Rouge, Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes, 2009, Red wine from France

6,5 points

This is probably the only French wine which is sold more in Germany than in France. For example there are two wine stores in Berlin but only one in Paris where you can buy this delicious wine.

The reason is rather easy. Domaine de l´Horizon was initiated by German oenologist Thomas Treibert. Today it is owned by German wine trading family Christ and him. The vineyards according to their webpage are between 40 and even 100 years old. They produce a clear amount of wines: two white and red ones and one rosé.

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A.J. Adam, Hofberg Auslese, 2013

A.J. Adam, Dhroner Hofberg, Riesling Auslese, 2013, White-wine from Germany

7,5 points

„Deutscher Prädikatswein“ – what a German word! But if you, dear reader, see this and you are not a German wine expert then you can for sure expect best quality. This is top-level of German wines. Prädikatswein range from dry to intensely sweet, but unless it is specifically indicated that the wine is dry or off-dry as these wines always have noticeably mounts of residual sugar. As you have in some other countries other categorizations respectively classification. You could read much more about it at Wikipedia if you look for German wine classifications: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_wine_classification).

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Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Restaurant, Berlin

Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

6,5 points

It took me a while upon this review. I slowly got my thoughts and impression into something you can read: My master of wine – Billy Wagner – and his partner Micha Schäffer succeeded generating a remarkably positive hype about their new restaurant called Nobelhart & Schmutzig. Not everyone has expected this as it is an unorthodox but dogmatic concept which they are following. Without real compromises, the sitting arrangement, the way of cooking and obviously the selection of wine is unique in Berlin! It takes you almost your breath when you get into the place first time so inspiring and even for Berlin standards unconventional it is. Some critics already wrote that it nuts to need ringing the bell to get access to restaurant as the door is locked. This indeed is pretty seldom in Berlin but probably also a concession to the interior because a wall between entrance and the sitting areas provide snugness for those who otherwise would have the door in their back. 28 seats along a three side counter which goes around an open kitchen and the bar. 14 seats on big table. Cool music out of gramophone records…

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