Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

7,5 points

It’s actually not so long since I wrote about Nobelhart & Schmutzig – please see my last review here: https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/09/18/nobelhart-schmutzig-restaurant-berlin/! The concept of this restaurant is the most radical conceptualization of real regional cuisine; Micha Schäfer and Billy Wagner call it “brutal regional”.

There is not too much to add except that I recently had another dinner there which by far exceeded my first experience there! I will not describe and review the whole menu – usually more than eight dishes – but I’d just like to highlight three amazing plates:

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Char on onions and dill

I am sorry for the low quality of the pictures. This is one of the best – almost raw – fish I ever have eaten, leaving aside sushi for the moment. Tender, a little bit creamy, incredibly fresh and very risky – since it is said that one should not eat raw fresh water fish. The onions must be of amazing quality since there isn’t too much to be added to this taste – obviously white wine.

WP_20160423_016.jpgLamb and Wild Garlic (Bärlauch)

Wild, intensive, pure! Taste of real meat at its best. It’s almost not  lamb anymore, since the butchered animal was nearly a year old. The strip of belly was extraordinary.

WP_20160423_018.jpgParsley Root, Hazelnut and roasted Malt

This is an incredibly fascinating dessert. It seems bit salty although it has a sweetness to it; and although it’s bitter it is also refreshing, light but still strong and really powerful. Having been very skeptical when I read the ingredients, I asked for additional portion since it was so amazingly flavorful. Regional cuisine presented so naturally gives a truly remarkable and exceptional tasting experience. Wonderful.

In the meantime, Nobelhart & Schmutzig received their first Michelin Star – in less than one year! These last dishes can be the basis of even more! Let us only hope – and I am serious about this – that the restaurant’s success won’t outgrow! The concept of minimalism requires a lot of fantasy and indeed access to the best – regional – product in the future. Just thinking of Paul Bocuse…..

More about Nobelhart & Schmutzig please find here: https://www.nobelhartundschmutzig.com/.