Barthenau, Pinot Nero, Hofstätter Vigna Sant’Urbano, 2008, red wine from Italy

7,5 points

It has been some time since I wrote about a wine from South Tyrol (Alto Adige). Some weeks ago, I ordered a wonderful Kerner and I told myself to write about this very typical South Tyrolean wine sometime soon. And then suddenly, I had a great tasting experience come in between, having opened a 2008 Magnum Barthenau from the winery Josef Hofstätter. Basically, I don’t need to write much about this winery and instead just refer you to my previous reviews: Riserva Mazon, 2006, Pinot Nero, Blauburgunder, J. Hofstätter. But the wine is absolutely top class! It was worth having stored it for so long, because at first it was really thin and a bit too woody. The last few years – I do not know how long I’ve stored it – have done it very, very well. A wonderfully balanced wine that does not remind you of a Pinot Noir in the classical sense, because it is much softer and smoother. Although it has retained the alpine coolness, which I like about the Hofstätter wines anyway, it now has strength and favorable spice. There is hardly any note of fruitiness left, but rather a compact balance of wood, tobacco, dark berries, something like orange peel and a super-fine tannin. Great wine, classically made, but with its very own character. Definitely a wine that gets addictive the older it gets. Or maybe it is at his peak right now. I saw online that you can buy even this particular vintage in some places! So rush!

Barthenau represents one of the best locations in the whole winery: Vigna Sant’Urbano of Barthenau. More specifically, the Hofstätter estate consists of very different locations or smaller vineyards. Also, the name given to the winery is that of Josef Hofstätter, who founded it ca. 120 years ago. Today, the estate is managed by Martin Foradori Hofstätter, whose great aunt, at the end of the previous century, rwas the proprietor of an inn in Tramin named “Schwarzer Adler”. Foradori garners the attention of connoisseurs of good wine, because there is the famous Elisabetta Foradori (Foradori, Fuoripista, Pinot Grigio, 2014) from Trentino. The two families are (definitely) related. While Elisabetta expanded her activities in the south (Tuscany), Martin Foradori acquired a few vineyards on the Mosel a while ago to indulge in Riesling there.

If you like to read more about the winery, here is the link to Hofstätter’s homepage: Last but not least: almost all wines from Hofstätter are worth recommending, this Barthenau of this vintage in particular is worth 7,5 points.