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Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen

Bergmandel, Lemberger GG, 2012, Aldinger

Bergmandel, Lemberger GG, 2012, Aldinger, Red-wine from Germany

7 points

I have been criticized by someone who is from Stuttgart that it isn’t as bad as I described in the opener of my review of Aldinger’s Spätburgunder Rosé some while ago (https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/03/07/spatburgunder-rose-grosse-reserve-2013-weingut-aldinger/). I only can repeat it is good to know the family Aldinger as they are great winemakers and it doesn’t matter really if they speak a bit strange German dialect. This all is a part of my perhaps strange humor and certainly is not related to any serious consideration about people coming from this area. Although I must say ….. again, this is joke.

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Peters, Scharzhofberger, Riesling, Spätlese, 2007

Peters, Scharzhofberger, Riesling, Spätlese, 2007, White Wine from Germany

6 points

Scharzhofberg (Wiltingen) is really one of the most famous Riesling vineyards of Germany. Although people would consider this is at the Mosel but it isn’t as the hill faces to south at the right side of the smaller river Saar. Similar to many other vineyards of the wine area Mosel, Saar, Ruwer the soil of this hillside contains weathered schist, rocks as well as ferruginous and clayey soil.

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A.J. Adam, Hofberg, 2013

A.J. Adam, Dhroner Hofberg, Riesling Trocken, White-wine from Germany

6,5 points

Another excellent Riesling from Mosel: A.J. Adam is a Riesling of the vineyard called Drohn. This is a part of Neumagen Drohn at the middle of German’s number one Riesling wine area Mosel.

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Brasserie Warszawska, Warsaw

Brasserie Warszawska, Restaurant, Warsaw, Poland

4 points

Just a quick dinner at Brasserie Warszwaska tonight in Warsaw. This little restaurant in the style of a French Bistro – quite often awarded and multiple recommended by different professional associations as Michelin – seems to be a place rather for lunch than dinner. It is Monday and similar to many other places this is not the busiest evening in general.

As much as it may look like a French bistro – rather in Los Angeles than in Paris – it is a beautiful, smaller but comfortable and selected place.

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Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Selo (Kobarid)

Hisa Franko, Restaurant, Staro Selo (Kobarid), Slovenia

8 points

In reference to my previous report about Hisa Franko – https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/04/27/hisa-franko-restaurant-hotel-staro-selo/ – I like to highlight the amazing, impressive and memorable cuisine. Ana Roš is a remarkable chef and it is completely not understandable that she hasn’t got more awards respectively she does not belongs to the circle of cooks which shall have at least one Michelin star considering uninspired food experiences in some French Michelin star restaurants.

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Les Paradetes, Conca De Barberà, 2009

Les Paradetes, Conca De Barberà, 2009, Red-wine from Spain

2,5 points

It is a philosophy to produce wines as naturally as possible, to classify the wine as organic or even biodynamic. For some people, discussing whether wine should contain sulfite is fundamental. I have no clear statement or position but just like to say that some overly natural wines just aren’t my cup of tea. (Adding sulfite is an appropriate and even in some cases necessary element of winemaking). I appreciate organic production as it is certainly healthier and respects natural resources and enriches flavors.

Nobody really knows if the phase of the moon or even natural or artificial noises or sounds have some influences on wine’s development. I personally don’t believe in it.

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Barbár, Heimann, 2011, Szekszárd

Barbár, Heimann, 2011, Szekszárd, Red-wine from Hungary

3 points

This is the big brother of Heimann’s Birtokbar which I introduced some while ago: https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/03/12/heimann-birtokbor-szekszard-2011/. The wine comes from Szekszár which is in Southern West of Hungary. The area covers the Eastern foothills of Transdanubian hills. The soli is mostly loess but also a little bit stony. It is one of the warmest areas of vineries in Hungary as the summers can be really hot there and usually they have long warm autumns as well.

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1 Ahr, Spätburgunder, Nelles, 2010

1 Ahr, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), 2010, Nelles, Heimersheim, Red-wine from Germany

6 points

Let me begin with a confession: I like all wines from Nelles and I also confess that I like almost all Spätburgunder from the Ahrtal – a small valley in Germany named by the river Ahr – which springs up German lower mountain area called Eifel. This is very much in the west of Germany bordering with Luxemburg and Belgium. The river runs into East and flows into the most “German” river Rhein. Due to it’s geologic but also geographic premises this valley is German’s largest complete red-wine area! This doesn’t mean that most of German red-wine comes from the valley. Not at all! But it is a fascinating piece of Germany: pretty much in the north, between Koblenz and Cologne, the water graved a deep valley with tough steeps on each side. Soil of such steeps is solely schist which is in certain regards similar to Mosel.

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H. Lun, Lagrein, 2013

H. Lun, Lagrein, 2013, Alto Adige Red-wine from Italy

3,5 points  

Lagrein is an autochthone sort of grape of Alto Adige which gives this red-wine its name. Sometimes you can find some rosé out of Lagrein, too.

Although I do not know too much about the vinery H. Lun but it seems this belongs since not too long time to another winemaker of Alto Adige: Cantina Girlan. However, as I don’t like to spread out wrong information I will focus only on this wine. I know the Lagrein of H. Lun pretty long. It was introduced to me more than ten years ago the first time by Heide Pellmann who ran a small wine-store in Berlin Prenzlauer Berg called “Nix wie Wein”. She always has some nice but really also affordable wines which was perhaps this sympathetic lady’s biggest talent. In general a Lagrein cannot be some top wine due to the grape and its rather simple quality. At least I never made such an experience. However a Lagrein has its typical and individual character. I like it because it really differs from a lot of other tasting experiences and due its rather modest approach it can be in certain moments particularly pleasant.

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Hisa Franko, Restaurant & Hotel, Staro Selo

Hisa Franko, Restaurant & Hotel, Staro Selo (close to Kobarid), Slovenia

7 points 

It was on the recommendation of my friend Gasper Gabrijelcic that I visited Hisa Franko, the restaurant of one of the top, top chefs in Slovenia, Ana Roš, and her husband Valter Kramar, a unique sommelier. Since this restaurant isn’t just around the corner but located in a very beautiful valley in the South-eastern Slovenian alps, it is very reasonable that they offer ca 10 rooms for staying overnight – or for several nights.

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Rosso Batic, Reserva, 1999

Rosso Batic Reserva, Ivan Batic, Sempas, 1999, Red-wine from Slovenia

5,5 points

According to a very nice book published by the vinery first wine was made at Batic since 16th century – by monks. Ivan Batic and his son understand themselves in the tradition of winemaking since some hundred years and the quality of wine I drank confirmes this. You can find all you like to know about Batic if you go on their perfect webpage: http://www.batic.si/. Sometimes it is senseless to write more about someone if is so well presented.

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Chamberlain Suite Hotel, West Hollywood, Los Angeles

Chamberlain Suite Hotel, West Hollywood, Los Angeles, USA

6 points

Every person has its favored hotel in a town where one goes several times or regularly. If you go to Los Angeles either as a tourist or for business you perhaps like to be located rather in a center of a circle of destination than perhaps somewhere at the edge.

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