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Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen

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Merlot

Merlot, Stekar, 2013

Merlot, Jure Stekar, 2013, red-wine from Slovenia

7,5 points

Jure Stekar often reminds me that I should finally write about his wine. And he’s undoubtedly right, because he produces one of my favorite Merlots. Merlot is such a widespread grape that there are understandably many sommeliers and wine lovers who have no particular affection for this grape variety. Due to the worldwide cultivation of this sort we can experience many different good and interesting wines. In the meantime, there are more than a few wineries in Germany who produce Merlot, including some that make very good wines such as Aldinger from Stuttgart (Bergmandel, Lemberger GG, 2012, Aldinger). Their Merlot of course tastes completely different compared to an unfiltered Merlot from Newton, California for example. What connects the two wines, however, is the proud price, even if the German is much better off.

Jure’s Merlot is not only a very special one because it has its very own character and is made entirely biologically and naturally (even without sulfides), but it is also an inexpensive price for its great quality. Though I probably shouldn’t mention that here because the price of the wine could always go up. However, what might prevent a rise in prices would be the rarely ugly label.

Continue reading “Merlot, Stekar, 2013”

Magnus Merlot, 2011, Villa Tolnay

Magnus Merlot, 2011, Villa Tolnay, red wine from Hungary

5 points

One of the most beautiful areas in Hungary is located between Tapolca and the north-western shore of Lake Balaton: hills, soft valleys often with cottonwoods, beautiful views – a place of relaxation and peace.

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The countryside is a mixture of Mediterranean views and volcanic landscape. Lovely: wine almost everywhere, mainly still owned and cultivated by private families – not as winemakers but private gardeners. Continue reading “Magnus Merlot, 2011, Villa Tolnay”

Chateau Brillette, Moulin de Médoc, 2006

Chateau Brillette, Moulin de Médoc, 2006, Grand Vin de Bordeaux, Red wine from France

4,5 points

This wine is much nicer than I expected! Spicy, dark berries, very dry, with strong tannins, but still very enjoyable. There is tobacco and even a note of bitter chocolate. The wine is full-bodied and quite potent. However, somehow it’s like a volcano that just can’t explode due to being covered by a huge layer of stones. You’re always expecting that something might still happen with this wine, but it doesn’t. For what it is: it’s good wine! A Bordeaux blend which is affordable, made from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and little bit of Petit Verdot. In other appellations, the winemaker would add Cabernet Franc, which of course could make the wine a bit more elegant. This certainly wasn’t the intention of this maker; therefore it’s a rather bulky if not a fat wine. If I were asked what’s missing, I would say: some elegance. Continue reading “Chateau Brillette, Moulin de Médoc, 2006”

Chateau La Lagune, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc, 2010

Chateau La Lagune, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc, Bordeaux, 2010, Red-wine from France

6,5 points

At Cave Croisette (https://avdwineandfood.net/2015/03/06/bistro-and-winebar-cave-croisette-cannes-2/) – one of the only places you can visit in Cannes – I recently have been advised to try a Chateau La Lagune. Since I haven’t been at the vinery (yet) I cannot report first hand – but drinking the wine is something special.

Continue reading “Chateau La Lagune, Grand Cru Classe, Haut-Medoc, 2010”

Pomerol, Château Cantelauze, 2000

Pomerol, Château Cantelauze, Jean Noel Boidron, 2000, red-wine from France

6,5 points

It is very probably senseless writing about “Pomerol” since really everything seems to be said. There are thousand more experts and each of them would certainly know more than me. I make it short: Pomerol is one of the much well known and respected wine areas and application in the Eastern region of Bordeaux (right side of Dordogne). It is considered being one the very best locations for wine in the world, some of the wines from Pomerol are really famous but also extremely expensive. Maybe two aspects are reasonable to name: the application of Pomerol does not know a classification system all reputation and reference of a wine is related to the vinery and its brand. The prices differences between vineries which even immediate neighbors are completely inexplicable as there are ranges of some hundred, sometimes even thousand Euros per bottle!

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Casalferro, Barone Ricasoli, 2000

Casalferro, Barone Ricasoli, 2000, Red-wine from Italy

5 points

Barone Ricasoli is one of the most prestigious vineries of Tuscany. According to Ricasoli’s webpage it is the oldest vinery in Italy as well as the biggest one in Tuscany. It doesn’t matter in my mind as their wines without any doubt belong to the best ones of Tuscany. Although I think the approach is a little bit too showily and even pretentious, it could be considered to be allowed because unbribable constant quality.

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Merengö, St. Andrea, 2006

Merengö Egri Bikavér superior 2006, St. Andrea, Red wine from Hungary

6,5 points

My favorite Hungarian wine maker is St. Andrea (http://www.standrea.hu/). So far I haven’t had a chance to visit them, although this is a producer I would really like to get to know. They produce a variety of wines: white and red, from typical grapes of the Eger wine region in Hungary, but also Pinot Noir. Most of the wines of St. Andrea are cuvées.

While I’m a big fan of their Pinot Noir, the most prestigious and certainly also their top wine is called Merengö. It is a cuvée made from ca. 50% Kékfrankos, then Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Continue reading “Merengö, St. Andrea, 2006”

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