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Alexander van Dülmen

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Germany

Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Restaurant, Berlin

Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

6,5 points

It took me a while upon this review. I slowly got my thoughts and impression into something you can read: My master of wine – Billy Wagner – and his partner Micha Schäffer succeeded generating a remarkably positive hype about their new restaurant called Nobelhart & Schmutzig. Not everyone has expected this as it is an unorthodox but dogmatic concept which they are following. Without real compromises, the sitting arrangement, the way of cooking and obviously the selection of wine is unique in Berlin! It takes you almost your breath when you get into the place first time so inspiring and even for Berlin standards unconventional it is. Some critics already wrote that it nuts to need ringing the bell to get access to restaurant as the door is locked. This indeed is pretty seldom in Berlin but probably also a concession to the interior because a wall between entrance and the sitting areas provide snugness for those who otherwise would have the door in their back. 28 seats along a three side counter which goes around an open kitchen and the bar. 14 seats on big table. Cool music out of gramophone records…

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Il Pane e le Rose, Restaurant, Berlin

Restaurant, Il Pane e le Rose or as everyone in Berlin knows it: Brot und Rosen, Berlin, Germany

4 points

Every third guest of this place probably is patron and from the direct neighborhood. Located along a street which is the border between a lovely park (Friedrichshainer Volkspark) and Berlin sub-district Bötzowviertel this restaurant faces a lot of competition as mentioned “Viertel” – area – is rich of different restaurants, bars and inns.

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Peters, Scharzhofberger Riesling, Spätlese, 2012

Peters, Scharzhofberger Riesling, Spätlese, 2012, Wiltingen, White-wine from Germay

6,5 points

Please refer to my review of the same wine but vintage 2007: https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/05/11/peters-schwarzhofberger-riesling-spatlese-2007/ and you can read more about this vinery.

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Ovum, Sauvignon Blanc, Aldinger, 2013

Ovum, Sauvignon Blanc, Aldinger, 2013, White Wine from Germany

7 points

WP_20150405_006Ambitious, highfalutin, bold, cool or just refreshing – you could use each adjective if you like to describe the concept and wine named Ovum. Ovum is Latin and translates into egg. What has an egg to do with wine? Actually nothing except that one can imagine some chicken between vines.

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Kanzemer Altenberg, Riesling Spätlese 2012, Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier

Kanzemer Altenberg, Riesling Spätlese Trocken, 2012 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier, White-wine from Germany

6,5 points

Another remarkable Riesling! At the label it is said Mosel but in real it is a wine from the Saar again as for instance all Scharzhofberg Riesling.

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Pinot Noir, Unfiltered, Peth Wetz, 2012

Pinot Noir, Unfiltered, Peth Wetz, 2012, Red-wine from Germany

5 points

I experienced a very nice surprise when I recently had an unfiltered Pinot Noir from the winemakers Peth Wetz. It is a comparable young vinery since they started own production only ten years ago. Nevertheless the internet is pretty full of it; certainly not only because of good marketing and publicity (they have a very professional and self-reliant webpage) but because of the quality of their wines. I haven’t tried anything of Peth Wetz before I found a special edition of them among the summer selection of the degustation subscription of Sueddeutsche Zeitung.

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Restaurant Rotisserie Weingrün, Berlin

Restaurant Rotisserie Weingrün, Berlin, Germany

5 points

Almost everywhere you can find chicken on a menu at a café, fast food place or any restaurant. Except it is an extraordinary location or perhaps Michelin Star restaurant the typical selection of chicken contains breast, filet and sometimes chicken wings. In Europe usually only Asians offer some different chicken dishes which could include meat of other parts of this ratite.

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B-52, Spätburgunder, Nelles, 2006

B-52, Spätburgunder, Weingut Nelles, 2006, Heimersheim, Red-wine from Germany

6,5 points

Recently I wrote a review about father and son Nelles and the newer wine called 1 Ahr: https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/05/02/1-ahr-spatburgunder-nelles-2010/. You can find a lot about the vinery if you open the link or even visit their webpage at http://www.weinhaus-nelles.de/de/weingut.html.

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Kaseler Nies’chen, Riesling Spätlese Trocken, 2012, Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier

Kaseler Nies’chen, Riesling Spätlese Trocken, 2012, Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier, White-wine from Germany

6 points

Again another wonderful Riesling of „the“ Riesling area Mosel! Even though I like to be precise. Kaseler Nies’chen is one of Germany’s top vineyard but actually at the valley of the small creek Ruwer which is an inflow to Mosel. A little bit similar to Scharzhofberg this hill belongs to the very top estates and is shared by several wineries. One of them is Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier which I recently introduced at https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/05/22/ayler-kupp-riesling-auslese-2012-bischofliche-weinguter-trier/. So I haven’t to write too much anymore about the vinery itself.

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Sauvignon Blanc, vom Kalkstein, Wernersbach, 2014

Sauvignon Blanc, vom Kalkstein, Wernersbach 2014, White-wine from Germany

5 points

This wine is another selection of the current Süddeutscher Zeitung spring collection.

If you read the description of the wine of Süddeutsche Zeitung this must be a very rare wine as they reports that the wine delivers aromas of Guava, grapefruit, a bit kiwi and peruvian cherry and even some asparagus. This is too much in one wine in my mind or the sommelier missed the rights synonyms.

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Ayler Kupp, Riesling Auslese, 2012, Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier

Ayler Kupp, Riesling Auslese, 2012, Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier, White-wine from Germany

6 points

The first nip is a different note than many other Riesling from this area which is very close to the famous vineyard Scharzhofberg at the river Saar. It is a little bit tart and, it appears creamier and has more petrol. This Riesling is perhaps also a little bit less mineral although the soil is shist. Due to a bit more modest mineralitiy there is a different balance among Riesling’s typical fruitiness and freshness. The fruits are less citron but a bit more mature as apple and gooseberry but also some exotic flavors. The wine sparkles a bit on one tongue which is refreshing and has a very long reverberation. Although it is an Auslese this wine is dry and even a little bit fumy if you can say so.

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Bergmandel, Lemberger GG, 2012, Aldinger

Bergmandel, Lemberger GG, 2012, Aldinger, Red-wine from Germany

7 points

I have been criticized by someone who is from Stuttgart that it isn’t as bad as I described in the opener of my review of Aldinger’s Spätburgunder Rosé some while ago (https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/03/07/spatburgunder-rose-grosse-reserve-2013-weingut-aldinger/). I only can repeat it is good to know the family Aldinger as they are great winemakers and it doesn’t matter really if they speak a bit strange German dialect. This all is a part of my perhaps strange humor and certainly is not related to any serious consideration about people coming from this area. Although I must say ….. again, this is joke.

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