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Alexander van Dülmen

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France

La Brocherie, Restaurant, Port La Napoule

La Brocherie, Restaurant, Port de Mandelieu la Napoule, France

5,5 points

Shall I disclose that my profession brings me to Cannes occasionally every year even three times? Everyone who knows me because of my job is aware of current Cannes Film Festival as many of those are right now in Southern France. There are many reasons to hate Cannes: for example the most arrogant and also expensive taxi drivers in the world – almost never available, unfriendly but certainly the opposite of modest, this is one of the only places in the world where you would consider a brand new Passat as lousy car. Many waiters are slow and rude; only those ones who are from other countries – in particular Eastern Europe – are often really nice. I always say that becoming a waiter in Cannes doesn’t require much French as the owner teaches them to behave as follows: “as soon as a guest enters the café don’t hurry, remain staying at the bar as each afternoon. After ca. five minutes – and only if the guest tries to lead some attention to itself – tell him: “J’arrive”. In the case this (maudit) guest is still counting on you after twenty minutes of waiting, just pass him and say “deux minutes”. And then, just some more minutes later, deliver the bill”. Being in Cannes since years you wouldn’t be shocked if someone in real would bill you for nothing. Since a single cappuccino at the Croisette is considerable affordable if it costs “only” € 8 (!) we all shouldn’t be astonished to pay just for foam.

Continue reading “La Brocherie, Restaurant, Port La Napoule” →

2

Brasserie Warszawska, Warsaw

Brasserie Warszawska, Restaurant, Warsaw, Poland

4 points

Just a quick dinner at Brasserie Warszwaska tonight in Warsaw. This little restaurant in the style of a French Bistro – quite often awarded and multiple recommended by different professional associations as Michelin – seems to be a place rather for lunch than dinner. It is Monday and similar to many other places this is not the busiest evening in general.

As much as it may look like a French bistro – rather in Los Angeles than in Paris – it is a beautiful, smaller but comfortable and selected place.

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3

Chandegrive, Saint Joseph, 2001

Chandegrive, Saint Joseph, 2001, Appellation Contrólee, Rhone, red wine from France

bad

WP_20150403_048If something tasted more like leather and wet and old tobacco than this wine… It has a dusty flavor – dusty meaning like the dust in a old house or garage

The only excuse could be that the wine is process of decomposition and simply a bit too old. But I still don’t believe it would be much better some years ago.

1

Clos de La Coulée de Serrant, 1999

Clos de La Coulée de Serrant, 1999, Appellation Savennières-Coulée de Serrant Controlée, white wine from France

8 points

I stored this wonderful wine for sixteen years until I opened the next bottle. I am always hesitating if I should open it since I can imagine the fascination and satisfaction drinking it and only one or two hours later it is over….

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Domaine de Beaurenard, Chàteauneuf de Pape, 2007

Domaine de Beaurenard, Chàteauneuf de Pape, 2007, red wine from France

5 points

I didn’t know anything about Domaine de Beaurenard and I have to admit that I don’t even remember how I came into these bottles of wine. Nevertheless, this wine tastes quite different from what you would expect if you open a Châteauneuf du Pape – it is much less
fruity and heavy than many other common ones. This one is much more straightforward – I actually think the German word “geradeaus” is clearer. Although already more than seven years old and, of course, produced from such typically rather sweet and rich grapes as Grenache and Syrah, this is one of the “coldest” Châteauneuf du Pape I’ve encountered so far.

Normally Châteauneuf du Pape has no tastable acidity but is something even like a praline this one is exceptionally sophisticated, cool and refreshing. Taste-wise there are notes of forest berry and spicy condiment. It reminds me a bit of moss. All this is pretty contradictory to the area of the Coté de Rhone, which is a rather warm wine area.

The wines of this winemaker are organic and biodynamic. And since this wine is so different and interesting, I recommend spending some time on the winery’s very informative and well-done website: www.beaurenard.fr. You will find all the information you need about Domaine de Beaurenard.

0

Saint Salonuis, Pinot Noir, Abbaye Le Lerins, 2008

Saint Salonuis, Pinot Noir, Ile Saint Honorat, Vine de Pays des Mediterrainée, 2008, red-wine from France

6,5 points

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The first time I drank this wine was at Cave Crevette in Cannes. I was looking for something unknown and had asked for something really local – and surprisingly they proposed a Pinot Noir from an island in the south of Cannes: Ile Saint Honorat. Obviously being very curious to taste a local Pinot Noir, this wine became a big discovery.

We all know that there is one domain of Pinot Noir in France, which is obviously Burgundy, and that many people would say this is the only area for something authentic – which is clearly stupid – since there are fantastic Pinot Noirs also in Germany, New Zealand, Hungary or even in Southern Tirol. There is one other little island which delivers fantastic French Pinot Noir.

You would expect to find grapes such as Syrah, Grenache or Mourvèdre in this region, but certainly not Pinot Noir. For me, this wine is one of the best but also one of the most unique Pinot Noir I know of. It is somehow very voluminous but also remarkably fresh. There is a note of pepper and you might even think you detect some salt in it. The soil must be rocky and stony as the wine has some unique mineral quality. Probably this has something to do with the weather conditions but perhaps the wind is different than on the mainland.

Continue reading “Saint Salonuis, Pinot Noir, Abbaye Le Lerins, 2008” →

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Bistro and Winebar Cave Croisette, Cannes

Cannes: Cave Croisette at Rue de Antibes

5 points

Everyone who knows me also knows how much I dislike Cannes. However, due to my business, I had to be there quite often.

WP_000737If you prefer to stay away from the touristic areas and horrifying food alleyways, if you like to avoid the grotesque freaks with some super models at the Croisette, and if you’d rather be around “normal” people, you should visit a small Brasserie and wine bar called Cave Crevette, at the beginning of Rue de Antibes. See here.

There is a very nice and nimble lady running this place – if I remember right, her name is Isabelle. The service is perfect and incomparably fast, considering the southern French and in particular Cannes waiter. As I was told, she is from the north of France as an explanation for her diligence.

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0

Cháteau Beau Séjours, 1998

Cháteau Beau Séjours, 1998, Bordeaux, St. Emelion Gran Cru, Red wine from France

5,5 points

I stumbled upon this bottle in my mother’s cellar. Not knowing anything particular about this wine, we just decided to open and decant it.

Simply speaking: very delicious but somehow stronger tannins than I am used to. The whole tasting experience was a graceful one, although it lacked some depth. There were a lot of flavors like dry fruits as plums and some real country flavors. Nevertheless, this wine wasn’t really filigree. Perhaps it would have been better to give the wine more than an hour air before you sip the first glass.

My drinking experiences is older than this blog. We tasted the wine more than one year ago. Hopefully it wasn’t too early.

It is probably not possible to get this wine (and vintage) at any store. Here is the website of the winemaker: http://www.beausejour-becot.com/

0

Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien, 2007

Château Léoville Poyferré, Bordeaux (St. Julien), 2éme Cru Classe, 2007, red wine from France

6,5 points

Opened by accident and not knowing the wine beforehand, late last summer I had a great experience drinking this Bordeaux. Not knowing too much about wine from Bordeaux, I later understood that this is something very nice. It is a rich red, very nice and balanced, as this richness isn’t heavy. Somehow a bit herbal and of course you can smell all kind of red and dark fruits. This wine is straightforward – in German: geradeaus – without any misleading or distracting extras.

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