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Alexander van Dülmen

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Poland

Skykitchen, Restaurant, Berlin

Skykitchen, Restaurant, Berlin, Germany

7 points

Alexander Hoppe has Richard’s deer. Which is funny because a few days before I finally made it to Skykitchen Berlin, I visited Richard, another Michelin star restaurant in Berlin, and there was no deer there – see here my review about Richard Richard, Restaurant, Berlin

Not that you should get the impression that I go exclusively to starred restaurants, but Berlin makes it quite easy, given that there are a total of 21 restaurants with altogether 28 stars – more than any other city in Germany and currently in 12th place in the world, and in Europe coming in right after Paris, London, and Brussels at number four! This said, I do not think that restaurants are necessarily better just because they have a star. There are many I’ve visited in past years they would easily get one from me, if I were a tester. But there are many cities and places in world that Michelin does not even test. And since I’m not ruining the career of a chef or a winemaker because I may not like what I’m served, with my recommendations you can take them or leave them. A friend from Los Angeles recently visited Brawn in London (Brawn, Restaurant, London) and enjoyed it very much. It is not listed among the almost 80 restaurants with a star there. And it’s certainly interesting to see how different all of the Berlin Michelin star restaurants are – or what makes them similarly unique on the other hand. This kind of field research is best done in my current hometown.

Skykitche view

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Belvedere, Restaurant, Warsaw

Belvedere, Restaurant, Warsaw, Poland

7 points

Wonderful location – wonderful food!

This is actually what would be enough to describe the restaurant Belvedere. The restaurant’s home is the new orangery in the Royal Lazienki Park in the middle of Warsaw.

NowaOranzeria

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Brasserie Warszawska, Warsaw

Brasserie Warszawska, Restaurant, Warsaw, Poland

4 points

Just a quick dinner at Brasserie Warszwaska tonight in Warsaw. This little restaurant in the style of a French Bistro – quite often awarded and multiple recommended by different professional associations as Michelin – seems to be a place rather for lunch than dinner. It is Monday and similar to many other places this is not the busiest evening in general.

As much as it may look like a French bistro – rather in Los Angeles than in Paris – it is a beautiful, smaller but comfortable and selected place.

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Restaurant U Kucharzy w Arsenale, Warsaw, Poland

Restaurant U Kucharzy w Arsenale, Warsaw, Poland

5 points

WP_20140617_002

If you were in Poland during the nineties and the first years of our century, you needed good Polish friends to find restaurants and inns which served edible food. Perhaps my Polish friends would protest, but at that time there wasn’t any culture for good food and even any interest in wine. Of course some homemade basics – a pickled herring with potatoes with some fresh dill – could have been delicious, but in general you got only heavy on meat (99% pork) and flavors which were the clear opposite of piquant.  As in every other country in Eastern Europe, you would have expected that after the wall came down there would be a huge “hunger” for new flavors, for foreign influences in cooking and some new tasting experience aside from vodka, beer and salty water. For whatever reasons it wasn’t like this for many years: one of my first foreign food experiences in Warsaw was bad Mexican cuisine (another problem is that I am not a big fan of Mexican food in general). It was frightening to see how my friend from Warsaw enjoyed this bad fast food and some cheap red wine from Chile.WP_20140617_010

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