Collezione Bertani, Bardolino 2013, Red-wine from Italy

2 points

I didn’t know about the story of Bertani and I did not met a wine of this producer which impressed me by now. This bottle of red-wine was a welcome gift of the Regent Hotel in Warsaw; so I honestly didn’t expect something special. Just that you know in advance: it isn’t a big wine or something very special! So if you expect a report about something extraordinary please have a look at some others of my reviews.

Of course one could say it’s a typical gift as one bottle doesn’t cost more than six €, so don’t expect too much! On the other hand it’s a gift but (!): Don’t look a gift horse in the mouth.

It is a cuvee of grapes Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Only a real wine expert should know these sorts you would think! Corvina is an original grape from the area of the beautiful northern Italian city Verona and it is the basis of any Valpolicella, one of better known wines from Italy. Rondinella – other rather unknown grape – also appears mostly in the same area as Verona but also Mantua. Molinara is a grape from the Lago di Garda – not far away from Verona.

According to the back side label the vineyard of all three sorts are from the “Garda Lake” hills. And indeed – still following the back side label – the wine is young! Actually for me it is much too young but I don’t believe it would become more enjoyable if it would mature. The whole character of the wine is rather like trendy, young, fashionable and somehow modern. But I wonder what I mean a modern wine could be?

Consider a really young wine which tries to find stability between unbalanced dryness and girlish fruitiness. Too sour, rather strong tannin, no elegance or charm of an individual character! No echo, empty finish and just a comparison of a fruity sorbet! Although this description is hard I like to say that for a price of just six Euro I got much worse wines. Put it into the fridge; drink it rather cold similar like grape juice, have perhaps some Asian flavored food with it or some peanuts (strong contrast) – then you should like one or two glasses.

Probably it is that what we would call a table wine or house wine for young people and naive trendsetter. You could call it also a wine for beginners because of the mix of undefined flavors and the presence of tannin. If you like to get headache drink the whole body, I would guarantee you will!

Coming back to the wine producer: Bertani! Watch their webpage and you will find out everything you like to know and you don’t like to know: This is a very big wine producer and due to this an impressive and really large variety of wines. Next time I will notice Bertani and review other wines, too.