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Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen

Month

April 2015

Chef’s Club by Wine & Food, Manhattan, New York

Chef’s Club by Wine & Food, Manhattan, New York, Restaurant, USA

6 points

Open and visible kitchens as the center of restaurants have become more and more popular. As long as the cooking doesn’t become just a show but you experience still very good food, it is a very enjoyable concept. Wherever, either in Warsaw (https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/02/28/restaurant-u-kucharzy-w-arsenale-warsaw-poland/), in Berlin (Nobel & Schmutzig) or in Moscow (Vostok) there are still individual ideas giving those places a special character.

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Chandegrive, Saint Joseph, 2001

Chandegrive, Saint Joseph, 2001, Appellation Contrólee, Rhone, red wine from France

bad

WP_20150403_048If something tasted more like leather and wet and old tobacco than this wine… It has a dusty flavor – dusty meaning like the dust in a old house or garage

The only excuse could be that the wine is process of decomposition and simply a bit too old. But I still don’t believe it would be much better some years ago.

Clos de La Coulée de Serrant, 1999

Clos de La Coulée de Serrant, 1999, Appellation Savennières-Coulée de Serrant Controlée, white wine from France

8 points

I stored this wonderful wine for sixteen years until I opened the next bottle. I am always hesitating if I should open it since I can imagine the fascination and satisfaction drinking it and only one or two hours later it is over….

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Riesling, Kalmit, 2011, Weingut Jürgen Leiner

Riesling, Kalmit, 2011, Weingut Jürgen Leiner, Ilbesheim, white wine from Germany

6 points

This is the sister or brother of the Spätburgunder from Kalmit which I introduced yesterday. Therefore I don’t need to describe the winery and winemakers in detail here – you can read everything at https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/04/03/spatburgunder-kalmit-weingut-jurgen-leiner-2009/.

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Spätburgunder, Kalmit, Weingut Jürgen Leiner, 2009

Spätburgunder, Kalmit, Weingut Jürgen Leiner, 2009, Ilbesheim, red wine from Germany

6 points

Many of the reports you can find about Jürgen Leiner online begin with the perception that he is – I assume actually all mean his son Sven – an extraordinary but very quiet wine maker, who isn’t easy to identify within the mass of winemakers in Germany, but who holds a quite special place. This is pretty amusing because there are incomparably more articles, reviews and reports about this winery than about others in the same region. Even on youtube you’ll find some videos related to Leiner. Thus, this family – who own and run this winery – seem to be pretty smart in marketing and presentation. Salespeople in wine stores sell Leiner’s wines rather cleverly – like they’re sharing an insider tip. This is actually quite distant from the reality – but perhaps it keeps prices up? But anyway, everyone who writes about the wines of Leiner, everyone who circulates a review about it, just likes or even loves these wines. And I honestly agree!

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Speicherhotel Barth

Speicherhotel Barth, Barth, Germany

5 points for the hotel

3 points for the restaurant

It is more than 15 years (!) ago that I discovered this hotel. Perhaps only my second or third time at the Baltic Sea (Ostsee) we stood at a peninsula called Darß (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dar%C3%9F) one the most beautiful areas of Germany (Two to three hours driving from Berlin). It a place of peace, relaxation and refreshment! The fresh breeze from the sea, amazing play of colors of sky and light and surprising changes of weather make for a unique and marvelous getaway.


WP_20150328_011

Crossing a bridge from Zingst, a village on Darß, toward the mainland brings you to Barth. 15 years ago – ten years after “DDR” (German Democratic Republic) – Barth is somehow a perfect case study of the transformation process within Germany.

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Nibbio Morellino 2013, Poggio Nibbiale Di Buchheim

Nibbio Morellino 2013, Poggio Nibbiale Di Buchheim, red wine from Tuscany, Italy

4 points

Another wine from the previously-mentioned degustation packet from the German newspaper  Süddeutsche Zeitung (https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/03/29/marcques-del-hueco-rioja-2012/) is probably a special edition of a Morellino from the winery Poggio Nibbiale Di Buchheim. Buchheim isn’t an Italian name, although the wine comes from Tuscany. If you “google” the name of the winery you understand quickly that this Buchheim is a German dentist from Seeshaupt – on the Bavarian lake Starnberger See. If you know the Starnberger See, then the association immediately creates an image of rich guys with a collection of Porsches and other symbols of opulence. This Mr. Buchheim seams to have invested his money into something much better – although I have no idea what kind of car he drives. He invested in his own winery. Compliments!

Continue reading “Nibbio Morellino 2013, Poggio Nibbiale Di Buchheim”

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