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Alexander van Dülmen

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Spätburgunder

Holger Koch, Pinot Noir ***, 2010

Holger Koch, Pinot Noir *** Selection, Großes Gewächs, Red-wine from Germany

6 points

The variety of Pinot Noir or Spätburgunder as it is called in German is pretty huge. Within Germany I wouldn’t call the differences extreme as there is some kind of characteristics of German Spätburgunder due to weather conditions but also the tradition of winemaking. This said there are clear distinctions among wines from wine areas as Ahr, Pfalz, Wüttemberg or Baden. So far I haven’t written about the wine area of Baden, not only because I actually never have been there. My first German red-wines always came from this area; probably the best know vineyards are called Kaiserstuhl. Kaiserstuhl isn’t one hill but small mountains in the very southern west of Germany. The name was given because German King Otto III held a tribunal at Dec 22nd 994 close to Sasbach which is a smaller village at the bottom of the Kaiserstuhl. These mountains are volcanic genesis which explains the very special soil of this area. Aside of this, it is one of the warmest and mildest areas of Germany.

Continue reading “Holger Koch, Pinot Noir ***, 2010” →

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Joseph Drouhin, Laforet, Bourgogne, Pinot Noir, 2005

Joseph Drouhin, Laforet, Bourgogne, Pinot Noir, 2005, Red-wine from France

3 points

Even though after I opened it two days ago it didn’t become an exceptional experience drinking this Pinot Noir of Joseph Drouhin.

First of all it surprisingly young, fresh and very straight forward. Secondly it is really dry and without some extravagancies. I read somewhere that the wine is fruity, but I would disagree. Obvious fruity notes as raspberry and red currant but there isn’t anything too dominant. It’s likeable that the wine is light, negligible tannins but still – considering missing character – balanced. A little bit smoky and with some memories of leather, that what comes along as well.

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B-52, Spätburgunder, Nelles, 2006

B-52, Spätburgunder, Weingut Nelles, 2006, Heimersheim, Red-wine from Germany

6,5 points

Recently I wrote a review about father and son Nelles and the newer wine called 1 Ahr: https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/05/02/1-ahr-spatburgunder-nelles-2010/. You can find a lot about the vinery if you open the link or even visit their webpage at http://www.weinhaus-nelles.de/de/weingut.html.

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2

1 Ahr, Spätburgunder, Nelles, 2010

1 Ahr, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), 2010, Nelles, Heimersheim, Red-wine from Germany

6 points

Let me begin with a confession: I like all wines from Nelles and I also confess that I like almost all Spätburgunder from the Ahrtal – a small valley in Germany named by the river Ahr – which springs up German lower mountain area called Eifel. This is very much in the west of Germany bordering with Luxemburg and Belgium. The river runs into East and flows into the most “German” river Rhein. Due to it’s geologic but also geographic premises this valley is German’s largest complete red-wine area! This doesn’t mean that most of German red-wine comes from the valley. Not at all! But it is a fascinating piece of Germany: pretty much in the north, between Koblenz and Cologne, the water graved a deep valley with tough steeps on each side. Soil of such steeps is solely schist which is in certain regards similar to Mosel.

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2

Spätburgunder, Kalmit, Weingut Jürgen Leiner, 2009

Spätburgunder, Kalmit, Weingut Jürgen Leiner, 2009, Ilbesheim, red wine from Germany

6 points

Many of the reports you can find about Jürgen Leiner online begin with the perception that he is – I assume actually all mean his son Sven – an extraordinary but very quiet wine maker, who isn’t easy to identify within the mass of winemakers in Germany, but who holds a quite special place. This is pretty amusing because there are incomparably more articles, reviews and reports about this winery than about others in the same region. Even on youtube you’ll find some videos related to Leiner. Thus, this family – who own and run this winery – seem to be pretty smart in marketing and presentation. Salespeople in wine stores sell Leiner’s wines rather cleverly – like they’re sharing an insider tip. This is actually quite distant from the reality – but perhaps it keeps prices up? But anyway, everyone who writes about the wines of Leiner, everyone who circulates a review about it, just likes or even loves these wines. And I honestly agree!

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0

Schloss Proschwitz, Spätburgunder, 2009 Proschwitz

Schloss Proschwitz, Spätburgunder, 2009, red-wine from Germany

4 points

Schloss Proschwitz is a winery close to Meissen in Saxonia. Meissen is world famous because of its porcelain manufactory and its historical prominent assemble of its cathedral and castle called Albrechtsburg.

Burgberg mit Albrechtsburg und Dom (Leander Wattig)
Burgberg mit Albrechtsburg und Dom (Leander Wattig)

Schloss Proschwitz is one of the main and well known wineries in this area nevertheless many people who like wine would not expect some special wines from the north of Dresden. It is indeed a pretty northern region but because of this it may is even more surprising and interesting that you can discover some very notable wines. Continue reading “Schloss Proschwitz, Spätburgunder, 2009 Proschwitz” →

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Riserva Mazon, 2008, Pinot Nero, Blauburgunder, J. Hofstätter

Riserva Mazon, 2008, Pinot Nero, Blauburgunder, J. Hofstätter, red wine from Alto Adige, Italy

5 points

In 2005, fortunately, we had a business meeting in Venice: an enchanting place for business, but even captivating for good food and wine. As long as you don’t have to pay for it ……

For dinner we went to a rather medium place because we didn’t want to spend too much money (Venice is really overly expensive). We found a very nice location. The wine menu was full of wines from area around Venice, Piedmont, Friuli and of course Toscana. One of the “cheapest” wines – today we would say “affordable” – was a Pinot Nero of the Südtirol winemaker Josef Hofstätter. I ordered it – and much to my surprise, the waiter really appreciated this choice. Obviously, not many costumers would have had the idea to order a wine of the “German” part of Italy – and I would love to know how this marvelous wine ended up on this menu. 2005 was about the time that I started to have both more money and more interest in wine – and for me this Pinot Nero was an amazing discovery. You can buy it directly from them via Internet or phone, But the best you can do is to drive there to enjoy this beautiful piece of earth among huge alpine mountains, apple tree groves and rows and rows of grape vines: Tramin.

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