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Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen

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Kurni

Kupra, 2008

Kupra, 2008, red wine from Italy

7 points

In June 2015 I wrote about Marco Casolanetti’s famous Kurni. If you are interested in Marco’s wine-making, and if you don’t know Kurni, please have a look here: Kurni, 2008

When I visited Marco – probably it is now perhaps even eight years ago – he also introduced me to his second wine, Kupra. Since he produces only 400 to 600 bottles of this wine per year, you would think that this is the little brother of Kurni, also because Kurni is so prominent. Actually, this would be wrong: first of all, Kupra is not made from Montepulciano, but rather from a grape called Bordò, a kind of a clone of Grenache. Secondly, it should be higher quality than Kurni, which is ambitious to say.

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Brunello di Montalcino – Madonna del Piano, 1993

Brunello di Montalcino – Madonna del Piano, Valdicava da Vincenzo Abbruzzese, 1993, red wine from Italy

7 points

Drinking wine, enjoying wine is so often also an emotional experience. Particularly if it’s a good wine! There are these special moments in life when you know afterwards why life is so beautiful, sometimes so grandiose …. Berlin, one of “the” towns of the world, Friday night, finishing work late, hungry for a “platform” for the transition from a heavy working week to a weekend! Relaxation is needed, but you cannot simply decree this to yourself. Too hyper to sleep, but also too tired to sleep.

Music is another element of emotional cognition. Friendship, too. On a recent Friday night, I rang the bell of Nobelhart & Schmutzig after midnight – a nice welcome, without any attitude like “hey, we are just cleaning up, almost closed, it’s “nice” to see you, but…”. Crossed the cleaned public kitchen area, seated at the bar next to Billy, who asked what I would like. Red. I got Adrianna Occhipinti. Sicilian wine. Wine experts among readers know it, and probably also know that this is a very good wine. I need to write about it, as this is also one of my favorite Italian winemakers. More importantly, someone tries to describe your sentiment, combines it with their own, the wine is in the bottle, and it smells delicious – although you already know it, or is it because you know it?

The restaurant is almost shut down for the night, the rest of the staff leaving, saying good night. Reduced light, the blue reflection of the screen of your friend’s laptop and – excellent music! A conversation among friends is never something about only one subject but so many at the time. A mixture of private, professional, daily, but also long-term things, all at once, slowed down by every sip of wine.

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Kurni, 2008

Kurni, Montepulciano Rosso IGT, 2008, Oasi degli Angelis Kurni, Red-wine from Italy

8 points

Very seldom you get a wine which is so original, so unique, so astonishing and simply fantastic. It is almost impossible to believe that this is pure Montepulciano. Kurni is the name of one of best wines from Italy I know.

Many years ago we ordered a wine in noble restaurant in Moscow named Bolshoi. The sommelier apologized because the selected wine wasn’t available but recommended a Kurni! My life would be poorer if the other wine would have been still available and I have’nt met this sommelier! I never heard about Kurni and – honestly since I hadn’t to pay – I agreed to take it also because the wine was very expensive. Really every single drop was worth each kopek! I became curious and wanted to know more about the winemaker, in particular because the wine comes from the region Marche which is rather unknown and unpopular.

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Il Grifone, 2000, Rosso Piceno Superiore

Il Grifone, Rosso Piceno, Superoire, Tenuta Cocci Grifoni, red wine from Italy

6 points

Until about ten years ago, wine from the Italian region Marche was still quite unknown. Many wine drinkers have heard the name of a grape – and type of wine – called Verdicchio, but they might not know that this a typical grape of Marche – an undiscovered region of Italy on the Adriatic side, east of Tuscany and south of Abruzzi.  I do really like Verdicchio, but this region is even more notable for its amazing red wine. Maybe the most impressive one so far is called Kurni (which became for whatever but strange reasons very popular in Moscow: https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/07/10/kurni-2008/), but the one I’m introducing here isn’t bad at all.

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