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Wine and Food

Alexander van Dülmen

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Organic Wine

Spätburgunder, Kalmit, Weingut Jürgen Leiner, 2009

Spätburgunder, Kalmit, Weingut Jürgen Leiner, 2009, Ilbesheim, red wine from Germany

6 points

Many of the reports you can find about Jürgen Leiner online begin with the perception that he is – I assume actually all mean his son Sven – an extraordinary but very quiet wine maker, who isn’t easy to identify within the mass of winemakers in Germany, but who holds a quite special place. This is pretty amusing because there are incomparably more articles, reviews and reports about this winery than about others in the same region. Even on youtube you’ll find some videos related to Leiner. Thus, this family – who own and run this winery – seem to be pretty smart in marketing and presentation. Salespeople in wine stores sell Leiner’s wines rather cleverly – like they’re sharing an insider tip. This is actually quite distant from the reality – but perhaps it keeps prices up? But anyway, everyone who writes about the wines of Leiner, everyone who circulates a review about it, just likes or even loves these wines. And I honestly agree!

Continue reading “Spätburgunder, Kalmit, Weingut Jürgen Leiner, 2009”

Nibbio Morellino 2013, Poggio Nibbiale Di Buchheim

Nibbio Morellino 2013, Poggio Nibbiale Di Buchheim, red wine from Tuscany, Italy

4 points

Another wine from the previously-mentioned degustation packet from the German newspaper  Süddeutsche Zeitung (https://avdwineandfood.wordpress.com/2015/03/29/marcques-del-hueco-rioja-2012/) is probably a special edition of a Morellino from the winery Poggio Nibbiale Di Buchheim. Buchheim isn’t an Italian name, although the wine comes from Tuscany. If you “google” the name of the winery you understand quickly that this Buchheim is a German dentist from Seeshaupt – on the Bavarian lake Starnberger See. If you know the Starnberger See, then the association immediately creates an image of rich guys with a collection of Porsches and other symbols of opulence. This Mr. Buchheim seams to have invested his money into something much better – although I have no idea what kind of car he drives. He invested in his own winery. Compliments!

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Domaine de Beaurenard, Chàteauneuf de Pape, 2007

Domaine de Beaurenard, Chàteauneuf de Pape, 2007, red wine from France

5 points

I didn’t know anything about Domaine de Beaurenard and I have to admit that I don’t even remember how I came into these bottles of wine. Nevertheless, this wine tastes quite different from what you would expect if you open a Châteauneuf du Pape – it is much less
fruity and heavy than many other common ones. This one is much more straightforward – I actually think the German word “geradeaus” is clearer. Although already more than seven years old and, of course, produced from such typically rather sweet and rich grapes as Grenache and Syrah, this is one of the “coldest” Châteauneuf du Pape I’ve encountered so far.

Normally Châteauneuf du Pape has no tastable acidity but is something even like a praline this one is exceptionally sophisticated, cool and refreshing. Taste-wise there are notes of forest berry and spicy condiment. It reminds me a bit of moss. All this is pretty contradictory to the area of the Coté de Rhone, which is a rather warm wine area.

The wines of this winemaker are organic and biodynamic. And since this wine is so different and interesting, I recommend spending some time on the winery’s very informative and well-done website: www.beaurenard.fr. You will find all the information you need about Domaine de Beaurenard.

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